OYSTERS—C/ESAR’S ENGLISH PEARLS = 223 
enormous fortune. He posed as the Pontiff of the Palate ; his 
was the final decision, ftom which lay no appeal, as to which sea or 
which part of what river produced the best of the various fishes. 
From the not unnatural bias of owner and founder he 
adjudged the Lucrine oysters finest of all. Pliny’s words 
(IX. 79) that, when Orata ‘“‘ ennobled’”’ the Lucrine, British 
oysters had not yet reached Rome convey a gratifying compli- 
ment to our insular pride, somewhat dashed by Pliny plumping 
for the Circeian.}! 
Oysters throve with travelling and a change to new waters.? 
The Brundisian oyster when planted in Lake Lucrinus not only 
kept its own flavour, but took on that of its new home. 
Apicius, not our gourmet M. Gabius, but an initialless 
successor, would have proved an admirable Quartermaster- 
General. When “ Trajan was in Parthia at a distance of 
many days’ journey from the sea, he sent him oysters, which he 
kept fresh by a clever contrivance of his own invention ; real 
oysters not like the sham anchovies which the cook of Nico- 
medes, king of the Bithynians, made for him,” when far inland 
and yearning for oysters. 
In a comedy by Euphron,‘ a chef sings his teacher’s marvel- 
lous skill :— 
“Tam the pupil of Soterides 
Who when his king was distant from the sea 
Full twelve days’ journey and in winter’s depth 
Fed him with rich anchovies to his wish 
And made the guests to marvel. 
B. How was that ? 
A. He took a female turnip, shred it fine 
Into the figure of the delicate fish.” 
1 See ante, p. 146. If he praise our oysters, he straightly condemns the 
pearls from them, as being ‘‘ small and discoloured ;’’ wherefore (IX. 57) 
Julius Cesar, when he presented a thorax to Venus Genetrix, had it made of 
British ‘‘ pearls,” a very poor requital to a goddess, who, if Suetonius is to be 
trusted, had so often stood him in good stead, both as a distant ancestress, and 
in other connections! Some really fine pearls have been found in Scotland 
and Wales: the best known of these, got at Conway in the eighteenth century, 
was presented to Catherine of Braganza, and is still preserved in the Crown 
jewels. Wright, op. cit., p. 220. 
2 Pliny, XXXII. 21. 
3 Athen., I. 13; cf. Suidas, s.v. dorpea. 
4 Euphron, incert. fab. frag. 1, quoted by Athen., J. 13. 
