256 THE NINE FISH MOST HIGHLY PRIZED 
In my list, which excludes the Echinets, despite its being 
according to Cassiodorus ! “‘ that honey of flesh, that dainty of 
the deep,” in precedence comes 1 the Mudlus, 2 the Scarus, 
3 the Acipenser, 4 the Rhombus, 5 the Lupus, 6 the Asellus, 
7 the Eel and the Murena, 8 the xarpoe, 9 the Sole. 
1. Mullus (M. barbatus), the ‘‘ Red Mullet.’ The passages 
already quoted as regards the huge prices sometimes given for 
it establish the extreme esteem with which this fish was regarded. 
But if need be, witness after witness to credit can easily be 
called. Perhaps, as regards the Latins, Nonnius will suffice : 
“ Inter omnes pisces prerogativa quadam omniumque consensu 
Mullus sibi imperium occupavit, nec alius unquam majori in 
honore aut gratia apud Romanos fuit.”’ 2 
Among the Greeks, if, as seems acknowledged, the rpiyAn 
corresponds to the Mullet, its place must be accounted high 
from the number of its devotees. Matron % goes into raptures 
even over its mere head when steeped in brine, irrespective 
of whether it came from an autumn (as recommended by 
Aristotle) or a spring fish (the choice of Xenocrates). 
The acme of epicurean hospitality was reached with serving 
the Mullet, not dead swimming in sauce, but alive swimming 
in a globe of glass, to be handed round among the guests. All 
eyes gloated as its gay hues gradually grew dimmer, till at 
last with death they faded into one dull colour. 
Seneca lashes with his bitterest irony the custom, and the 
company. They are no longer content to satisfy their teeth 
and their stomach—no, they must also gratify their eyes. 
“No one now sits with a dying friend. None can bring him- 
self to witness the death, however much desired ! of his father. 
The last hours of brother or kinsman find no soul with him. 
To the death of the Mullet have they all flocked with one 
accord.” 4 
2. For the Scarus (S. cretensts), the ‘“‘ Parrot Wrasse,’’ see 
Chapter X. 
3. The Acipenser, a Latin name, adopted by some Greek 
1 Var. epist., III. 48. 
2 Op. cit., Pp. 93- 
3 Matron, ’Arrixdy Setrvoy, 27 ff.; ap. Athen. IV. 13. 
* Cf, Seneca, Nat. Quest., III, 18. Also Pliny, N: H., 1X. 30. 
