120 AUSTRALASIAN 



and mark with same gauge in from the edges for rabbet E, and 

 also run the gauge down the ends of the boards from the planed 

 sides to mark for rabbet C (Pig. 39). Before shifting the gauge, 

 the rabbets on the side pieces can be marked. The rabbets D 

 and E (Fig. 41) are marked exactly the same as the rabbets D 

 and E in Fig. 39. We have now the rabbets D, E, and the edge 

 of C marked. The gauge will then require to be set at seven- 

 eighths of an inch to mark in from the ends of the end pieces 

 on the inside for rabbet c, Fig. 39, and also down from the top 

 edges for rabbet B, Fig. 39. All that is wanted now is to reset 

 the gauge to a quarter of an inch, and mark on top edges from 

 the inside for rabbet B, Fig. 39. 



Fig, 41.— SIDE OF HIVE (INSIDE VIEW), 



The rabbets, being all marked, will require cutting out. 

 The best tool for this purpose I have ever used was an iron 

 plough (American). With this tool, fitted with a f-iron and 

 set to a |-gauge, it will scarcely require the marking gauge to 

 be used. By cutting out the rabbets D and E (Fig. 39) first, 

 some little labour will be saved when cutting c. If a saw cut 

 is put in across the latter it will expedite the cutting. For 

 C and B a £-iron will be required, with the gauge of the plough 

 set to the proper depth. After the rabbets are cut, strips of 

 tin, l£in. wide by 14in. long, should be folded in the centre to 

 form the metal supports A (Fig. 39). These are tacked on, as 

 shown, so as to allow the upper edges to project above the 

 lower part of rabbets about one- eighth of an inch. Metal 

 supports, or, as they are commonly but incorrectly termed, " tin 

 rabbets,'' are for supporting the frames, the projecting ends of 



