176 SIBERIA 



the River Katun, which we crossed, although the ice 

 was breaking up. Arrived at the other side, we 

 entered a dense, trackless forest, through which we 

 groped our way in cotnplete darkness; it was won- 

 derful how the leading horse found his way through 

 it. Our rate of travelling was not more than about 

 three miles an hour, the state of the ground render- 

 ing more rapid progression out of the question. We 

 had intended to follow the course of the river, but 

 this was impossible, as the ice was breaking. We 

 very nearly had an accident with one of the pack 

 horses, which became frightened and restless because 

 of the holes in the ice. At one time it seemed as 

 though it would tumble through a hole, in which 

 case it would have been washed under the ice by 

 the fast-flowing river, which at that place was deep. 

 A second forest was entered and left behind us, 

 and then we entered a mountain pass which led us 

 up to a height of 6, loo feet. A Kalmuck followed 

 iclosely behind us and seemed to think it a great 

 privilege, as, like all Kalmucks, he seemed to be 

 afraid of high passes. He had not been over the 

 pass in the winter before, and, as many of the Kal- 

 mucks were starving for want of food, he took the 

 ■opportunity of following us over to visit a friend 

 in the Akkem' valley to see if he could spare any 

 stores. It was about halfway up the pass that he 

 joined us, and seemfed to bring bad luck, because 

 we were immediately greeted by a snowstorm. We 

 were not long in reaching the summit of the pass, 

 however, where we noticed the pieces of coloured 

 ribbon which the Kalmucks tie to the branches pf 

 trees by way of thankofferings for their safe arrival. 

 After a brief rest we made a rapid descent, still 

 accompanied by the storm, into the Akkem valley. 

 The road down the pass zig-zags for two or three 

 miles, ending in a steep dip to the right into the 



