PEAK-BAGGING IN THE ALTAI 187 



found to be as flat as a billiard-table, and nearly as 

 hard sas rock. The altitude was 13,000 feet. We 

 found it impossible to retain our footing without 

 striking our feet hard against the glassy surface, and 

 even with this precaution and the additional one of 

 roping ourselves together, we frequently slipped. At 

 the upper end of this glacier, which was only about 

 200 yards across, there was a hanging glacier, which 

 presented a very pretty sight. The ice here was 

 buried a foot deep in snow, and snow lay also on a 

 steep slope to the left, which was exposed to the 

 north. I made the hunter photograph me, and then 

 I took another photograph of the top of the glacier, 

 afterwards picking out, with my Zeiss binocular, the 

 way which I intended ascending the first slope. 

 There were an ice-glazed slope and some steep rocks, 

 and it looked as though I was in for some good, 

 climbing. I looked at the rocks very carefully to 

 see if there was any possible route, and all the time 

 the hunter was evidently taking in the situation. He 

 pointed to the rocks and wished to know if it was 

 my intention to attempt to ascend them. When I told 

 him that such was my modest desire he demurred with 

 considerable vehemence, so I left him and took a 

 course up a steep slope to the left. Fearing an 

 avalanche, I changed my course a little farther on 

 and selected a more difficult ascent over a shoulder 

 of steep rocks, not unlike the shoulder of the Matter - 

 horn in character, but with an outward dip and 

 descending slope. Once on top of this I proceeded 

 along an easy ridge— 13,300 feet high— which led to 

 the summit. I took my own photograph, and after- 

 wards proceeded up the ridge. I encountered several 

 very steep gullies, which demanded respectful treat- 

 ment, owing to the presence of a quantity of loose 

 rock. Great caution was necessary in stepping from 

 one piece to another in order to avoid being 



