CLIMBING BELUKHA 203 



time, but it was altogether another matter in the 

 winter^ and the hurried climb up the northern 

 precipice of Belukha began to tell on me. ~ 



After the difficulty I had experienced, the sight 

 of the summit stimulated me ; I was so exhilarated 

 that I felt like making an attempt to run up the 

 slope, although I knew running would be impossible. 

 The summit could not have been much more than 

 150 yards away. The first 30 yards were over deep 

 snow, and afterwards clear ice, which lay at an angle 

 of 35 to 40 degrees ; but after that the ridge seemed 

 to lie up an easy, if somewhat narrow, slope, 

 apparently covered with soft snow, which I expected 

 to be able to walk up without difficulty. I laboured 

 across the first stretch and exhausted myself, the 

 deep snow making the climb exceedingly heavy. I 

 was ready to take a rest, so I stood awhile and 

 admired the view. To the north was a circle of 

 mountains, and several avalanches fell, while I was 

 looking, from the north-western peaks, near the 

 glacier and moraine along which I had come. The 

 weather was unsettled but the snow-fall had ceased. 

 Turning to look along the glacier, which was about 

 8 miles long on the south side of the mountain, 

 I could also see a large number of snow-capped 

 peaks. The glacier was covered with fresh fallen 

 snow. The ridge on which I stood was rather 

 dangerous, as the hard ice with which it was coated 

 would not allow the nails of my boots to get a good 

 grip. The view of the summit, however, filled me 

 with an irresistible desire to climb it, and although 

 badly in need of a rest I began to cut at the hard 

 ice. I was disappointed to find that my hardest 

 blows only succeeded in chipping away small pieces 

 of the ice scarcely larger than a hazel nut, and it 

 was nearly half an hour before I succeeded in cutting 

 one decent step. This convinced me that it would 



