ARRIVAL AT RIO, AND JOURNEY TO QUELUZ. 21 



considered the De Lesseps of Brazil. They were all dressed 

 in white trousers, broadcloth frock-coats, and black silk 

 hats. 



We anchored at 10.30, and came on shore at twelve. 

 I cannot attempt as yet to describe the town, that must 

 be deferred till I have time to go about a little ; but I am 

 much struck by the execrable manner in which the streets 

 are paved all over the heart of the city. To-day has been 

 a very busy day. After coffee at the hotel, I went out for a 

 stroll before breakfast, and walked to one of the squares, 

 the Largo da Constituigao, meeting crowds of niggers and 

 mulattos — men, women, and children of every shade, from 

 the deepest black to the palest white, carrying sugar-cane, 

 bananas, oranges, and many other fruits and vegetables, 

 also prawns, and fish of various kinds. In the centre of the 

 square is a bronze equestrian statue of Dom Pedro I., the 

 base of the pedestal being surrounded by four bronze 

 groups, representing the typical Indians of the four principal 

 rivers in Brazil — the Amazons, Sao Francisco, Parand, and 

 Madeira ; beside these groups are eight great gas-lamps. 

 The square is, of course, full of tropical trees, palms, 

 crotons, etc. ; and there are many benches in the shade, 

 but it is nothing like the Passeio Publico, which is really a 

 most charming garden, though small, in the heart of the 

 town. 



After nine o'clock breakfast, we all went together to the 

 Engineers' Club, the New London and Brazilian Bank, and 

 paid several duty calls, passing compliments, shaking hands 

 ad infinitum, bowing, and smoking dozens of cigarettes ; 

 and then to the Alfandega, or Custom House, where we 

 were detained an enormous time, having in all some 

 hundred and fifty packages, fifty of which were instruments, 

 drawing tables and boards, paper and other necessaries. 



