8o A YEAR IN BRAZIL. 



hunting about in the mist for the site of a new camp till 

 eleven. Then I removed the camp, with the aid of my 

 men and four horses ; and finally six men and two lads 

 brought over bodily the thatched rancho, or shed, I had 

 had constructed to protect the cook's fire when it rains ; 

 being all tied together with " Uianas," it was quite flexible, 

 and none the worse for its removal. The next day the 

 camp was perfumed all day long by the burning of a wood 

 called " camara," which smells like incense. 



August 26. — Went off about 9.30, for Sao Amaro, 

 where there was a special intercession at the church to 

 keep off the small-pox. I passed crowds of people on the 

 road. I called upon the padre, who is nice, but requires 

 "drawing out." There is a large wooden cross in front 

 of the church, with the implements of the Passion — nails, 

 ladder, pincers, etc. — nailed on it. All the women and 

 some of the men kiss it most reverently before entering the 

 church. There are no seats, but a fixed barrier between 

 the nave and the chancel. The womens quat or kneel in 

 the body of the church, the men and boys standing or 

 kneeling in the chancel. 



August 27. — I have been inconvenienced by not getting 

 my luggage. When the ox-cart reached Paraopeba, on the 

 15th, I was very busy ; so, after seeing that the instruments, 

 etc., were laden up, I left my personal baggage to others. 

 The result was that all went wrong — it never came ! and 

 I had to send back for it. Then, again, there was a muddle, 

 and, though my instructions were very plain, the landlord 

 did not know what to send ; so this morning the " carreiro " 

 (ox-cart driver) arrived early, asking for instructions, but 

 stating at the same time that he would not go back, as the 

 small-pox was very bad at Paraopeba. (Nice for me, who 

 had worn one shirt for a fortnight !) Then there was 



