LIFE IN ENTRE RIOS, MINAS GERAES. 145 



the raised platform, from which four steps descend on each 

 side to the street, and from thence we watch what is going 

 on. The quiet is remarkable ; there are sometimes a dozen 

 people of various colours passing, but being all shoeless, 

 or occasionally in slippers, their tread is noiseless. During 

 the day there are horses, mules, travellers, ox-carts ; but 

 at night all is still, and lights are put out at 8.30. At 

 seven in the morning all the shops are open, and there 

 is a busy traffic. Even by six a.m. there are boys selling 

 milk and bread, and women carrying water, and every one 

 seems to be up and about. 



As a change, the life here is not unpleasant for a time, 

 while the warmth is delightful. I think I have mentioned 

 that in no room is there any fireplace or stove. Our kitchen 

 grate is merely three stones in the middle of the floor 

 to keep the wood in order, and the smoke finds its way 

 out through the door or the interstices of the tiles ; while 

 our old hag, the black cook, who has two projecting front 

 teeth, squats on the floor preparing our food, retiring at 

 intervals to her spinning-wheel, or going into the back 

 house to attend to some indigo she is preparing, by steep- 

 ing in water, to dye the cotton, which is woven in a hand- 

 loom into coverlets.* Her two youngest boys play about 

 in the garden, the elder occasionally running out on 

 messages. The ancient dame, though "ugly as sin," is 

 very useful — roasts and bruises the coffee, fetches water, 

 cooks, and does everything we require, for which we pay 

 her ten milreis a month. 



I went to service last Sunday for the first time this 

 year. The church is a well-constructed building, with a 

 grand though rather tawdry interior, and it has three 



* " Indigo grows everywhere wild, and gives that fine purple gloss which 

 rivals the produce of Hindostan." — Captain Burton. 



