LIFE IN ENTRE RIOS, MINAS GERAES. 163 



to them an outer kitchen, where was an oven for their use ; 

 but they preferred to use mine, though they did their own 

 cooking, having arranged everything with my old beldame, 

 with whom they were immediately on the best of terms. 

 I had also arranged that they were to have their meals 

 whenever they chose, but that I must have mine separate. 

 To this they would not consent, but said I must breakfast 

 with them this morning, to which, of course, I was obliged 

 to submit. They had a filthy stew, reeking of garlic, com- 

 posed of baccalhao (salt codfish), rice, and feijoes. You 

 have no idea how repelling these black beans look before 

 one is accustomed to them. There were also " repolhos," 

 or greens, and farinha. I had not thought of supplying 

 them with wine, but as I was with them I could not keep 

 the bottle to myself Fortunately only five of them were 

 present at breakfast, so we only drank the one bottle of 

 red wine, which was all I had in the house, and which they 

 much appreciated. Oh, the loathsomeness of that meal, 

 especially when one's mind wished to dwell on the awful 

 tragedy we then commemorate !— eating with fork, or 

 spoon, or fingers, spitting out bones, etc., on the floor ; and 

 finally, at the end of the meal, came the last straw, when 

 every one went to the pipkin of water in the corner of the 

 room, took out half a tumblerful, rinsed their mouths, and 

 spat it all out on the mud floor — anywhere, just where 

 - they stood. 



They all went out about eleven, and I had a nice quiet 

 time till 2.30, when they began to return, dropping in by 

 twos and threes, and we had dinner together at 5.30. 



There was no service here to-day, which I consider 

 extraordinary, especially as there are now four priests in 

 the town. I asked Padre Antonio why he did not have a 

 Mass of the pre-Sanctified, and he shrugged his shoulders. 



