LAST DAYS IN BRAZIL. 221 



gentlemen, one of whom has a splendid collection of 

 orchids, and another possesses a large number of butter- 

 flies. However, my long walk was nearly enough for one 

 day, and as I could afford no more time, I must be satisfied 

 with what little I have done. At least, I am delighted 

 that I took the opportunity of the only day at my disposal 

 to have a glimpse at this lovely Alpine village, which will 

 long remain impressed on my memory as something very 

 un-Brazilian like, owing to its German Protestant com- 

 munity and the absence of negroes. 



July 24. — I left Petropolis by the 7.30 a.m. train, Mr. 

 Mills and his fair-haired young daughter accompanying me 

 to the station, which gave me the opportunity of expressing 

 my extreme satisfaction with my brief visit and his kind 

 reception. 



The morning was cool and cloudy, with much mist ; so 

 there was no clear view from the Grotto Fundo, the waters 

 of the bay being undistinguishable from the strata of the 

 clouds. From the bay itself only the top of the Sugar-loaf 

 was visible at first, and as we neared Rio even that was 

 concealed by the clouds. By 9.45 I was at the office, and 

 employed the rest of the day in packing up. 



I must conclude the account of my trip by a short 

 description of the drive up the mountain to Petropolis 

 before the days of the railway, in words, as is usual with 

 the Brazilians, far more poetic than I can lay any claim to 

 possessing the power of producing. " The ascent of the 

 Serra da Estrella (Mountain of the Star) is of itself a most 

 agreeable trip, whilst enjoying the purest breezes of the 

 world. There is much to admire — waterfalls, cascades or 

 rapids, grottos, enormous rocks, trees of a thousand ex- 

 quisite shapes, and splendid panoramas over the bay are 

 seen every moment — so that the traveller, soothed and 



