38 ROCK LADDER 
proceeded up the Me-tan Gorge, where vertical cliffs 
descend sheer into the water, which is many fathoms 
deep. It took two hours to reach the other end, where 
the banks opened and one was able to land. Here I 
got a few butterflies, but nothing worthy of mention. 
After tiffin I returned to Sin-tan, and on landing and 
walking through the village to my boat I twice had 
sand thrown in my face, and was frequently insulted. 
I attributed this exhibition of hostility by the natives 
to their connecting me in some way with arumour that 
had reached them of the river being opened to steamer 
traffic, which, if it ever did happen, would of course 
seriously damage, if not ruin, their principal source of 
livelihood. As, however, the Chinese Government have 
reserved to themselves the right to have the first 
steamer on this part of the river, it is not likely that it 
will ever be open to steam navigation. On getting on 
board there was a fair wind, and a start was made on 
the return journey. A short distance down a tempting- 
looking gorge was seen running down to the river, but 
on landing I found only disappointment awaiting, for 
I soon found my progress effectually barred by a water- 
fall tumbling over unclimbable rocks. Close by is one 
of the extraordinary paths, or rather ladders, made by a 
series of steps cut into the almost perpendicular surface 
of the rock, taking advantage of every favourable 
