142 DESPATCHES FROM LHASSA 
heaps of broken stone slabs may be seen, covered with 
inscriptions in Sanscrit character. They are not under- 
stood by the natives, but are held in great respect, and 
if.a piece gets broken off or thrown into the road, it is 
always carefully replaced. The Chinese take no notice 
of these heaps. 
This town is on the high road between Pekin and 
Lhassa, and sometimes the Government messenger may 
be seen passing through. The system is curious, and 
it seems to be indispensable that a despatch of any im- 
portance must be carried the whole distance by one 
man. The best horses are procured for him to ride 
upon, and he never stops except to change horses, to 
the saddle of which he is tied. He is accompanied by 
two soldiers, who are changed at every station, on the 
arrival at which a fresh horse is always found ready, 
and fresh guards in attendance. The courier is untied 
from the horse, given a raw egg to eat, mounted and 
tied to a fresh horse, and proceeds on his journey. I 
was informed that this excessively hard work proves 
fatal to many couriers. 
On July 11 Mr: Rockhill left on his return journey, 
which he made to Shanghai by, I believe, the same 
road that I had come up, viz. by land to Kia-ting-fu, 
and then down the river by native boat to Ichang, 
where he would be able to finish his journey by steamer. 
