28 FOEESTKY EST EASTERN RUSSIA. 



the high bank was frequently cut through by gullies and 

 ravines, evidently the result of the spring torrents.' 



Of the land journey my friend subsequently wrote 

 to me: — 'At XJfa (pronounced Oofah) we found two 

 tarantasses awaiting us. We packed in our luggage, bought 

 some bread to prevent starvation, and started to the merry 

 sound of the bells. I had had no experience in packing 

 these conveyances, consequently we had miserable seats ; 

 and the hundred versts, under a broiling sun for some 

 hours, and then in darkness till the moon lent its kindly 

 light, gave us no favourable impression of this mode of 

 travelling. No inns providing refreshment exist : such a 

 mark of civilization we left behind us in the town of Ufa ; 

 aU. we could get was the samovar, with cups and glasses, 

 and we used the tea, sugar, &c., &c., we carried with us. 

 Even this was a boon of which we availed ourselves only 

 twice ; and we reached Bogoyavlensk works at 1 A.M., 

 famished as hunters, and fatigued almost beyond endurance. 



' The Lord's Day was literally a day of rest ; for body 

 and brain were alike incapable of any exertion. The 

 younger members proved the strongest, and recovered 

 sooner than I did ; but my wife was ill, and scarcely left 

 the house during a fortnight. I recovered soon, and 

 applied myself energetically to fly-fishing, astonishing 

 both the natives and the fish, except when I aimed at the 

 higher game, a species of salmon, when I was thoroughly 

 disappointed. This lasted ten days, and then my brother- 

 in-law and I started for the mines and Orenburg, The first 

 journey was to be 270 versts. We started fairly well, went 

 50 versts by bye-road, and reached Sterlitamak. There 

 we had food and a little siesta while the sun was too high ; 

 we then entered upon the post road, planted during Cathe- 

 rine II.'s reign with a double row of birch trees, which are 

 now in splendid condition, affording an agreeable shade 

 wherever available. 1 use the term advisedly, for the 

 drivers uniformly begged permission to use a side-road, 

 because the post road was in a condition unfit for travellers. 



