48 FORESTRY IN EASTERN RUSSIA. 



that those of Tobolsk and Tomsk are muddy, causing the 

 yemstchiks, when possible, to avoid them — to go into 

 lanes and by-ways, over hillocks and fallen timber, and 

 down into holes and ditches, all of which give variety to 

 the route. The Yeneseisk roads deserve nothing but 

 praise ; they are well kept, and would be reckoned good 

 in England. The Irkutsk ways deteriorate, and those 

 beyond Baikal are worse than all ; for the Buriat yemst- 

 chiks drive you furiously over hillocks, rocks, and stones. 



' Nor are roads the only things to be traversed ; there 

 are numerous streams and rivers — some with bridges, but 

 more without. Through some of these your horses simply 

 walk ; on others there is a well-kept ferry, upon which 

 you and your carriage are drawn or rowed. On one 

 occasion our vehicle was put on the ferry, and the horses 

 made to swim the stream. It sometimes happens, how- 

 ever, especially in early spring, that the ice or floods have 

 carried away or damaged the ferry, and a flat-bottomed 

 boat is temporarily substituted. In this manner we 

 crossed the Tom. The tarantass was lifted by degrees 

 into the boat, one wheel at a time. The boat was Only 

 just wide enough to take the vehicle, and we were advised 

 to let down the hood, lest the wind should blow us over. 

 This was about the only time I felt nervous, and I confess 

 being thankful when we safely reached the opposite 

 shore. 



' The cost of these pleasures of travel is not so great in 

 Siberia as might be supposed. In the western division, 

 where pasture is abundant, the hire of each horse is only 

 about a halfpenny per mile. In Eastern Siberia, the fare 

 is exactly double. Horses are changed about every ten or 

 fifteen miles, and each new driver looks for a gratuity, 

 euphemistically called " money for tea!' On the amount of 

 the " tip " depends your speed. Ten kopecks are often 

 given, but we found fifteen put the boys in better humour, 

 and we made from a 100 to 130 miles a day. Two hundred 

 versts in a day and night, for summer travelling, is con- 

 sidered good, and we sometimes did it ; but given a Rus- 



