THE CARE OF STREET-TREES 133 



in shaping young trees during their first few years of 

 growth. The cutting part of pruning-shears is the one 

 blade — the crescent shaped portion just presses against the 

 branch. When using the shears they should be held in such 

 a way that the crescent is turned toward the side of the 

 branch that is being removed. When trimming back twigs 

 the cuts should be made about half an inch or an inch above 

 a strong bud, which on developing will continue the growth 

 of the branch. The short stub will dry and fall off, so that 

 the active tissue near the bud will form a callus over the 

 wound. When the cut is made too close to the bud, it is 

 likely to be injured by drying, and will not develop. 



When removing heavy branches it is sometimes best to 

 support the ends, and a rope and pulley-blocks are found 

 very useful. When cutting back the ends of branches that 

 cannot easily be reached by a ladder, the workmen can sup- 

 port themselves partly by means of ropes attached to the 

 belt, and running over a crotch near the stem at the top of 

 the tree. 



Hints to Tree-Climbers. — The Department of Parks of 

 the Boroughs of Brooklyn and Queens issues, in pamphlet 

 form, the following "Hints to Tree-Climbers" to its men: 



"1. Before starting out on a tree, judge its general con- 

 dition. The trunk of a tree that shows age, disease, or 

 wood-destroying insects generally has its branches in an 

 equally unhealthy condition. Greater precautions should, 

 therefore, be taken with a tree in this condition than with a 

 young, vigorous tree. 



"2. The different kinds of wood differ naturally in their 

 strength and pliability. The soft and brash woods need 

 greater precautions than the strong and pliable ones. All 

 the poplars, the ailantus, the silver maple, the chestnut. 



