a72 THE ORCHID REVIEW. [June, 1915. 
/ 
‘too long, or the plant may be permanently injured. These remarks are 
especially applicable to such Oncidiums as O. varicosum, Marshallianum, 
Forbesii, crispum, curtum, the warm-growing O. ampliatum, stelligerum, 
and many others, which often produce very large, many-branched spikes of 
bloom. It may not be out of place here to mention that undoubtedly many 
‘thousands of these plants have been irretrievably ruined through over- 
‘flowering. It should be remembered that Orchids in glass-houses are 
grown under artificial and unnatural conditions, and are therefore quite 
unable to bear the strain of flowering as they do in their native habitats. 
Plants of Cattleyas and Lelias that are not well rooted suffer consider- 
ably if allowed to carry their flowers too long, but perhaps no class of 
Orchids loses so much in appearance by over-flowering as Aérides, Vanda, 
‘Saccolabium, Angrzecum, Renanthera, &c. When such plants have lost a 
number of their lower leaves from this cause, it is necessary not only to 
take their flower spikes out immediately they appear, for one or two 
-seasons, but also to give them, the whole year round, more generous 
treatment, which should mean less exposure to sunlight, less air, and more 
atmospheric moisture. Many Orchids are also injured when in flower by 
‘removing them from their proper temperatures to a dry and draughty 
greenhouse, frequently termed the Orchid flowering house. Young growers 
should always bear in mind that vigorous growth in every plant is the thing 
to accomplish. Carefully avoid over-flowering, which is undoubtedly 
antagonistic to the future welfare of the plants, and many rare and valuable 
plants can be saved either by removing the flower spikes immediately they 
show, by thinning the buds out, or by cutting the spikes as soon as the 
flowers are open. These flower spikes, if stood in a Cool, or Intermediate 
house, with their stems in water, will, in most cases, retain their beauty for 
any reasonable length of time. 
WARM-GROWING CYPRIPEDIUMS.—In the East Indian house many of 
the Cypripediums have recently been in bloom, and as soon as they have 
recovered from the effects of flowering, and new growths are pushing up, let 
each plant be examined to see if additional pot-room is necessary. None of 
these plants should be left for long in a pot-bound condition, and now is 4 
good time to repot them. Fill the pots to about one-third full of crocks, 
and use a compost of good fibrous yellow loam, osmunda fibre—cut up 
rather finely, so that it may be better incorporated with the loam than when 
used in a rough, coarse state—and chopped sphagnum moss in equal 
proportions, adding small crocks in sufficient quantity to keep the soil 
porous. Mix these materials well together, and pot each plant with 
moderate firmness. For a few weeks after repotting keep the surface of 
the compost just moist, but when the plants are re-established afford 
abundance of water, and at all times keep the plants on the shady side of © 
