1876.] H. C. Marsh— Description of a trip to tie Gilgit Valley. 121 



all had to take to the paddles and* urge the unwieldy craft to the opposite 

 or right bank, which is higher than the left, and crowned by an old fort. The 

 scenery of the river is desolate but grand; the surrounding hills, some 

 20,000 feet high, are bare of vegetation, steep, and in winter peaked with snow, 

 which, however, seldom falls in the valley itself. 



Shortly after leaving the river and entering into the Sye valley, which 

 is watered by a stream falling into the river just below the ferry, we came 

 to the first village of a few houses called Dumrote, surrounded by green 

 fields and fruit trees, a pleasant contrast to the desolation on the Bunji 

 side. 



After marching up the Sye river three or four miles, we arrived at the 

 junction of two streams, and crossing the Sye, by wading one half and the 

 other half by a bridge, we made a short halt at the village of Sungrot, a 

 large, well populated place, to change our coolies, the Astor ones having 

 come four marches with us, as none were procurable en route* The Vizier, 

 Bagdur Shah, a Shin, lives here, and is the chief man in the valley ; he came 

 to pay his respects, and helped me to get men to carry my traps. The Sye 

 valley from this point contracts, and the path leads along the right bank of 

 the Sye river close to the water. At times the river floods the road. This 

 wild and desolate scene continues for four miles, with high steep hills on 

 each side, when again the valley opens out to nearly its former size, about 

 a mile broad, at the village of Chakerkot. 



Here all was smiling plenty and peaceful repose, green fields of wheat, 

 barley and other grains, such as Trombu and China, together with fig, 

 walnut, grape, and mulberry trees, on all sides. The clouds which had been 

 threatening, here broke over us with a crash of thunder, the rain deluging us 

 in a moment, and glad were we to find shelter in the small enclosed masjid 

 of the village. The mosques of these countries are enclosed and have deep 

 verandas round them, if in -populous places ; if not, they are simply a square 

 room with a small door and a hole in the roof to let out the smoke of the 

 fire, which generally burns all day long. 



I was soon surrounded by the simple villagers, but unfortunately not 

 understanding their language, Shina, could keep up but a broken conversation 

 in Persian with the Mulla, who only knew a few words. 



After the storm was over, we came out and found the court in front full 

 of people, mostly children, who had come to see the Firingi, or Farang. 

 Again changing coolies, we continued our march through the pleasant fields 

 and under the shade of fruit trees. The path ascends the valley, passing 



* The method of forced labour in these countries is unavoidable with the present 

 arrangements, causing great discontent and even desertion into other countries. All 

 might be obviated by a good road to facilitate pony traffic. 



