122 H. C. U&Tshr— Description of a trip to the Gil git Valley. [Ko. 2, 



many small hamlets and solitary farms with pretty scenery, till the village 

 of Jugrote is reached five miles from Sungrote. Here my tent was pitched, 

 close to th<? well-kept mosqne. 



The lower -and inhabited part of the Sye valley, only twelve miles in 

 length, owing to its fertility, is the envy of the surrounding countries. The 

 inhabitants are all Sunni Muhammadans of the Shin clan, and this small com- 

 munity never having been able to hold its own against its more powerful neigh- 

 bours, Gilgit and Chilas, has passed from hand to hand according to the 

 varying fortunes of either tribe, but still has escaped the fate of Bunji, 

 owing, no doubt in part, to the people being more industrious and helping one 

 another, and in part to the great fertility of the soil and plentiful supply of 

 water. The people are an independent set and must be gently used, as they 

 brook little tyranny at the hands of the Kashmiri ; for if taxed too heavily, 

 they pack up their goods and chatties and making a flying march with their 

 families and cattle, go over into the Yaghy or Free country of Gor and 

 Dareyl, which are situated at the back or west of their valley. 



There is another road to Gilgit higher up the Indus and along the Gilgit 

 river, from its junction upwards, not used for some years past, a part of 

 the road having been carried away into the latter river by an earthquake. 



Continuing my route, the road to Gilgit leads straight up the Sye valley 

 to Jugrote, and the Pass of Mladar between the two countries overhangs the 

 village. The south side of the Mladar pass is easy, but has no water on it ; 

 the lower ascent is gradual, over a stony hill side, but the upper part is steep 

 and rocky, all of a red colour. A well defined path leads all the way up the 

 Pass, which I traversed on foot. The summit, reached in about two hours, 

 disappoints one as to the view. The Sye valley and Indus below look 

 pretty, Bunji a dark speck of green on a red field. A short distance still 

 further up, the Barbuni* valley can be seen, but of Gilgit, little more than 

 a confusion of rocky bare peaks, the river being hidden in its deep bed. 



The descent is very long, but at first gradual, and if we divide it into 

 four parts, would be described as the 1st and 2nd parts an easy slope over 

 a bare waterless gravelly plateau. A large herd of urial, or wild sheep, 

 enlivened the scene ; they kept too far off to give me a shot, galloping away 

 out of sight over fearful ground. In the 3rd part, the descent becomes 

 more rough and steep, the river below, with a part of its valley, comes into 

 view, as the path leads more to the north-east and parallel to the Gilgit 

 river, the lower part is the most trying, still steeper and rougher, till 

 at last we scrambled down into the river bed by a nearly precipitous cliff, 

 and rushed to drink of its muddy waters, now swollen by melting snows. 

 The path then leads up the steep bank again, crossing many wearisome 



* The local name of the Sye River, which rises on the south slopes of Pehot Moun- 

 tain, on the boundaries of Dareyl and Gilgit. 



