1876.] H. C. Marsh— Description of a trip to tie Gilgit Valley. 137 



as each required so he took a spoonful ; in this way we soon finished the 

 first course — after which came some beautiful ripe melons, long in shape 

 with smooth green skins, some with green, others with yellow, flesh ; they were 

 cut up in long slices and distributed. The third and final course was a large 

 pannier of apricots, for which fruit the place is famed. I got up after all 

 was over, feeling I should require no more food for a week ; then I distri- 

 buted some tobacco, and took, myself, forty whiffs. The whole proceeding 

 was most picturesque, the place, the men, &c, &c. I shall long remember the 

 scene and our conversation, which was mostly on the history of the place and 

 its people. I remained at Gaokuch four days, strolling about and enjoying 

 the delightful climate. The elevation is about 6,800 feet. The sun at noon 

 is powerful, but more endurable than at Simla or Murree. The water which 

 irrigates the plateau descends from a spring high up a valley to the south, 

 at the head of which valley is the range of mountains which divides Yassin, 

 Tangyr, and Gaokuch. The supply sometimes fails in dry seasons, there 

 being no glaciers on the south side to feed the stream. 



The people dress like their neighbours in coloured paijamas, white cot- 

 ton kurtas worked over the front with a patchwork of coloured cloth ; the 

 caps are either the Yassin kulahs, or else the bag cap used by all the 

 Gilgitis or Botes. Just below on the river's edge is a small patch of soil, 

 from which they extract salt by boiling the earth in water. 



Tobacco, salt, and iron, are the three articles of which these countries 

 are most in want. If an iron mine were to be discovered, as no doubt it 

 will be some day, the status of the whole people would be raised thereby, 

 and a great impetus be given to the industries of a naturally hard- 

 working people. 



Faqirs and pirs, or saints, both beg and rob the people. I saw a case of 

 a fine strong f aqir with five murids, chelas or disciples, who used to go about 

 sometimes mounted, at other times on foot, and beg all they could, and occa- 

 sionally, if they found an opportunity, would take by force food, clothing, 

 ponies, goats, fowls, &c, giving in exchange ttiwiz, or charms, against illness, 

 the evil eye, ill-luck, and love charms. 



One peculiarity in the dress of these people is the use of the brooch. It 

 is made of different sizes and shapes, but generally a ring with a needle attached 

 to one side. Ivory, mot her-o' -pearl, brass, and silver, are used in their construc- 

 tion. Both sexes wear them, the women to fasten their chogas together, the 

 men to hang on their charms. It is curious to see these charms sewn up in 

 little bags, dangling from whatever part of the body they are supposed to affect, 

 head, shoulders, arms, &c. Although saltpetre is universally found, they do 

 not understand how to purify it. Sulphur is found in Nagyr and Hunza, and is 

 sold in round cakes by weight. Gunpowder is made by all who have guns, 

 in their own houses, by their own hands, no regular manufacturer makes it 



