SHOES. 



ftrip is fettled to its pofition, it is attached to the fole by 

 linking it down with a mallet upon the points of the nails. 

 The thin or feathered edge of the ftrip of leather is put in- 

 fide, fo that the edge of the fole, for about the breadth of 

 half an inch, is of a double thicknefs ; but within this, the 

 extra thicknefs dimini{he6 away to nothing, leaving only the 

 thicknefs of the fole. The ends of the ftrip of leather 

 which compofe the welt, where they join and complete the 

 circuit of the fole, are cut floping, fo as to lap over each 

 other, and make a joint, without any increafe of thicknefs, 

 or apparent divifion. When the fole is taken out of this 

 frame, the welt and fole are beat well down together, to 

 make a good joint ; it is then carried to the cutting prefs, 

 in which the edge or outline of the fole and welt are cut 

 fmooth, and to the fame fize ; becaufe, as the frame of the 

 welting machine muft be rather lefs than the fole, in order 

 that the frame may bear upon the edges of the fole all 

 round, and thus hold it faft, the welt, which is moulded or 

 bent round within the frame, will be a fmall quantity lefs 

 all round than the fole. To guide the knife in cutting 

 round the edge of the fole, it is confined between two iron 

 patterns, which are made exaftly to the fize to which the 

 edge is to be pared. They are attached to the fole by two 

 gauge pins, fixed into one of the plates, and pafling through 

 the holes in the fole, projcft far enough on the oppofite 

 fide for the other plate to be fallened on, in its required 

 pofitioB, by two holes which receive the ends of the pins. 



The cutting-prefs very much refembles a common lathe : a 

 horizontal fpindle is fupported in a frame, confifting of two 

 itandards, erefted from a horizontal plate, to fuitain the 

 fpindle, which paftes through a collar in one of thefe ftand- 

 ards, and projefts fome inches beyond it, having at the 

 extremity a piece of wood flat on the furface, and of the 

 fame (hape as the fole. Againft this flat furface the two 

 iron plates, with the fole between, are placed, and they are 

 forcibly prefted together by the aftion of a fcrew, fitted 

 into a third iron ftandard, erefted from the fame horizontal 

 plate, and preffing by means of a' lever upon the iron 

 plates exaftly oppofite the end of the fpindle. This pref- 

 fure caufes the fpindle to retreat a fmall quantity in the 

 direftion of its length, and then a flat circular plate, fixed 

 upon the fpindle, (in the fame fituation as the pulley of a 

 common lathe,) is made to prefs againft a fimilar flat plate, 

 which is fallened to the frame, and therefore cannot turn 

 round. By the friftion between thefe two furfaces, the 

 fpindle becomes immoveable, and the prefs holds the fole 

 firm, whilft the workman, who is feated before the machine, 

 cuts all round the edge with a drawing-knife, which is 

 made (harp in the middle, and is worked with both hands 

 by having a handle at each end. When he has with this 

 tool pared down that part of the edge which is upper- 

 moft, he releafes the fcrew of the prefs, and a fpring then 

 caufes the fpindle to advance fo far as to relieve the flat 

 circular plate, which is fixed upon the fpindle, from its 

 contaA with the fixed plate. This leaves the fpindle at 

 liberty to be turned round, and the fole turns with it, fo as 

 to bring up a new part of the edge of the leather to a 

 convenient fituation to be pared or cut ; and the fcrew is 

 then turned to faften the fpindle as before defcribed, and 

 at the fame time to prefs the fole between the two patterns. 

 When the edge of the fole is thus cut, it is carried to a 

 grindftone, and ground fmooth : the ftone is turned with a 

 quick motion, by means of a band and large wheel ; the lea- 

 ther is afterwards pohlhed by applying it to the edge of a 

 wooden wheel, on which a little bees-wax is fpread. 



^pphcatton of the long Nails. — The fole, thus re-inforced 

 by the welt, is returned to the punching machine, and be- 



ing attached to another pattern, a range of holes is pierced all 

 round theouter edge, through both,juftwithin theformerrow 

 of tacking nails ; after which, by the nailing machine, thefe 

 holes are filled with nails which projed through the upper 

 fide of the welt, being longer than any of the former, and 

 being alfo intended to penetrate through the upper-leather 

 and inner foles, and thus faften the (hoe together. In this 

 (late the fole is ready to be put to the upper-leathers. 



The upper-leathers are prepared for applying to the fole, 

 in the fame manner as the ordinary (hoe, -viz. by fewing 

 the vamp, or piece which covers the upper part of the fuot, 

 to the two quarters which go round the heel, and alfo 

 fewing thefe two quarters together behind the heel. The 

 workmen do not hold the work upon their knees to few it, 

 but four men work at a fquare table, the corners of which 

 are cut off, and a fmall piece of wood projects from each 

 angle : the two pieces of leather which are to be fewed 

 together are laid upon one of thefe pieces of wood in the 

 proper pofition to be fewed, and are held faft by an endlefs 

 ftrap, which is laid over them, and the workman binds it 

 faft down, by prelTing his foot in the ftrap, like a ftirrup. 

 This method of lewing, which is far fuperior to the common 

 mode, might, from its fimplicity, be ufed by all (hoe-makers, 

 and would render their bufinefs lefs unhealthy ; whereas at 

 prefent they are fubjeft to many difeafes from fitting in 

 the awkward and unnatural pollure which is neceffary to 

 reach their work, when they hold it upon their knees. 



Operation of cloftng or rivetling the Shoe together. — The 

 upper-leathers are put upon a laft, and held tight there- 

 upon whilft the fole is applied. This is done in 



The Clamping Machine. — It is a fmall oval table, fup- 

 ported on a column, but capable of turning round upon 

 the column, to enable the workman to work at any fide, 

 lu the centre of the table a laft is fixed, with the fole up- 

 wards; it is fupported at a height of about fix inches from 

 the table. The fole is made of caft-iron, in a folid piece, 

 with the ftem or part by which the laft is fupported ; but 

 the under part, upon which the upper-leathers are to be 

 moulded, is made of wood, for the convenience of altering 

 the figure when neceftary. The laft is fixed upon the table 

 by means of two fteady pins ; and a ftrong pin, which pro- 

 jefts from the lower part of the laft, and paftes through 

 the table, is bound faft by a wedge, which confines the laft 

 firmly upon the table, in the fame manner as if it was made 

 in a piece therewith. The table has a number of pieces of 

 brafs attached to it by hinges, and arranged all round the 

 laft in fuch a manner, that they can be turned up againft 

 the lower part of the laft, and then form clamps, which are 

 exaftly adapted to the figure of the lower part of the laft, 

 and will therefore clamp or bind the leather firm upon the 

 laft at the toe, heel, and every part thereof, except at the 

 flat part of the fole. The brafs clamps are of fuch dimen- 

 fions, that they will touch each other when turned up, and 

 thus form a complete cell or box, in which the lower part 

 of the laft will be contained, and the leather confined upon it ; 

 but the cell being made in feveral pieces, or clamps, they 

 can be removed one by one, as found neceftary. The 

 clamps are forced up to their fituation by means of an in- 

 dependent fcrew for each, which is tapped in an oblique 

 direftion through the edge of the table, and the point 

 forces up the end of a fmall rod, which is jointed to the 

 clamp near the part where it afts upon the leather : by this 

 means the force of the fcrew afts to turn the clamp up 

 upon its hinge, and at the fame time prefs it againft the 

 leather. When the preflure is releafed by difplacing the 

 end of the fmall rod from the point of the fcrew, the clamp 

 will be fufFered to fall back upon the table ; and this being 



done 



