WEAVING. 



confiils of feparate warps and fepirate wefts, but the two are than the weaver can manage by his feet, they feldom employ 

 interwoven at intervals. The junftion of the two webs is a draw-loom. 



formed by palling each of them occafionally through the 

 , other, fo that any particular part of both warps will be found 



fometimes above and fometimes below. 

 I This fpecies of weaving is almoft exclufively confined to 



the manufafture of carpets in this country. The material 

 I employed is dyed woollen, and as almoft all carpets are de- 

 ' corated with fanciful ornaments, the colours of the two webs 

 I are different, and they are made to pafs througli each other 

 , at fuch intervals as will form the patterns required. Hence 

 ' it happens that the patterns at each fide of the carpet are the 



fame, but the colours are reverfed. Carpets are ufually 



■ woven in the draw-loom, or with the machine called the 

 I draw-boy before defcribed. 



Marfeilks is a fabric woven of cotton, which is a double 



; cloth. The loom for weaving Marfeilles is fomewhat fimilar 



! to the diaper loom. A good idea of the manner in which 



it is prepared may be had, by conceiving two vi'ebs woven 



' one under the other in the fame loom, which are made to 



■ intermingle at all the depreff d lines, and form the reticula- 

 tions on the furface, in imitation of the quilting performed 



' by hand. 



I When the fpecies of Marfeilles, called Marfeilles quilting, 

 ; is made, a third warp, of fofter materials than the two others 

 \ defcribed, lies between them, and merely ferves as a fort of 

 1 fluffing to the hollow fquares formed by them. 



Quilling is another fort of cotton Huff, folely appropriated 

 to quilts, which (hould, in ftriftnefs, be fet down exclufively 

 , to the cotton manufafture, although there is nothing to pre- 

 vent its being made of other materials. 



I The weft of thofe quilts is of very coarfe and thick yarn, 

 I whicli is drawn out by a fmall hook into little loops, as it is 

 woven, that are fo arranged as altogether to form a regular 

 ; pattern ; every third or fourth (hoot of the fiiuttle, the 

 weaver has to llop to form thofe loops from a draft, which 

 caufes ti;e weaving of thofe quilts to take up more time than 

 that of any other ituif, except tapeftry ; which accounts for 

 I the greatnefs of the price at which they are fold, in propor- 

 ;tion to the value of the materials of which they are princi- 

 ] pally compofed. 



. Gauze differs in its formation from other cloths, by having 

 'the threads of the warp crofled over each other, inflead of 

 ; lying parallel. They are turned to the riglit and left alter- 

 ;nately, and each fliot of weft preferves the twine which it 

 I has received. 



: This effcft is caufed by a Angular mode of producing the 

 , fiieds, which cannot eafily be defcribed without the aid of 

 ! drawings. 



I Crofs, or Net IFeaving, is a feparate branch of the art, and 

 irequircs a loom particularly conflrufted for the purpofe. 

 I Spots, brocades, and lappets, are produced by a combina- 

 ition of the arts of plain, tweeled, and gauze weaving, and 

 las in every other branch of the art are produced in all their 

 ,varieties by different ways of forming the divifion of the 

 Iwarp by the application of numerous heddlcs, and their con- 

 :neftions with the treadles which move them. Indeed the 

 ;great flcill of the art confiils in the proper management of 

 Ithis part of ihe apparatus of a loom. 



Rilhdnd Wtav'wg Tliis was formerly performed by a 



Ifmall common loom, weaving one ribband at a time. Rib- 

 ibands arc commonly ftriped in the length by laying a ftriped 

 iwarp, and patterns are produced by changing the colour of 

 khe weft occafionally ; fometimes an ornamented edging is 

 jformed by a fiiccclfion of open loops at the borders of the 

 iribband. Figured ribbands arc alfo woven by a great num- 

 ber of treadles, but as they rarely extend to a greater number 



Engine- Loom for weaving Ribbands The weavers at Co- 

 ventry, which is the principal feat of the ribband trade, uni- 

 verfally employ what they call an engine-loom : it is worked 

 by the hands and feet like a common loom, but weaves twelve 

 fixteen, or even twenty ribbands at once. The (buttles are of 

 courfe fly-fhuttles, and are driven by what is called a ladder 

 becaufe it is a fmall frame exaftly like a ladder, which Aides 

 horizontally in a groove in the lay ; and every crofs-bar of 

 the ladder afts upon one fhuttle in the manner of a pecker : 

 the ladder has a handle to give it motion. 



Another peculiarity of this loom is, that the ribbands are 

 taken away as they are woven, with very few interruptions 

 to wind up the work : for this purpofe they conduft the 

 warps over pulleys, and the ribbands alfo, fo that both hang 

 down in long loops. Thefe looped parts are conduAed 

 through pulleys, which are loaded with weights, and tend 

 always to draw the loops down, and keep the warp tight. 

 The weight which is thus fufpended by the finifhed ribband 

 tends to draw it forwards at every ilroke which the lay 

 makes; and the weight which is fufpended by. the yarn of 

 the warp is drawn up. When thefe weights have run 

 through their refpeftive courfes, the weaver muft flop to 

 wind up the finifhed ribband, and unwind a frefh length of 

 yarn. In fome looms this is rendered unneceffary by a 

 fimple mechanifm, which continually winds up the ribband 

 as faft as it is woven. 



In iRoi the Society of Arts rewarded Mr. Thomas 

 Clulow, for an improved loom for weaving figured rib- 

 bands. 



This loom differs from the common figured ribband- 

 looms in the method of forming the figure, which, in the old 

 mode, was tedious, from the work being flopped, whilfl the 

 figure was drawn by hand. 



In the prefent loom, the tire-cords which form the figure 

 are drawn or worked by a cord or leather-ftrap fixed to the 

 centre-treadle, which flrap paffes over two vertical and one 

 horizontal pulley to the back of tfce loom, and has a weight 

 hung to the end thereof. Upon this flrap above the weight 

 is fixed an iron, of a bevel or floping form, which when the 

 flrap is pulled up by preffing with the foot upon the treadle, 

 raifes a wire -lever placed acrofs the main-wheel of the move- 

 ments placed vertically, and allows this main-wheel to move 

 one-fourth of its circumference, where it is flopped by an 

 iron pin, placed on its rim, and prevented from returning by 

 a clitch or catch on the edge of the wheel on its right 

 fide. 



Within the rim of the main-wheel is a fmall catch-flrap 

 connected with the flrap above-mentioned ; this catch-ftrap 

 pulls forward the main-wheel one-fourth of its circum- 

 ference, until it is flopped by the wire-lever and one of the 

 pins on the rim, of which there are four in number in the 

 ground. 



There are alfo four iron pins projefting from the left fide 

 of the main-wheel in oppofite quarters of it : thefe aft on a 

 hanging lever, to the lower part of which a ftring is at- 

 tached, which paffes behind the box containing the whole 

 machinery, and raifes four clicks or catches on four rollers, 

 which permits any one of the four rollers to run back as the 

 figure may require, each roller by fuch motion drawing up 

 the number of threads ncceffary to form the figure, by cords 

 extending from thefe rollers over pulleys to the pafs-cords, 

 which draw the figure. 



Machine Loom for Ribbands. — We have before mentioned 



M.Vaucanfon's loom for weaving ten ribbands by a rotatory 



tnotion. We do not know that this is in ufe in this country. 



Ffi Mr. 



