332 THE ORCHID REVIEW. 



of Oncidium varicosum Rogersii. Growers know how difficult it is to 

 cultivate some sorts of Oncidiums successfully for even three years after 

 importation, and O. varicosum is no exception to this. Having a lot of 

 plants here I potted half of them in the leaf-mould. Those potted in the 

 old way, and those not repotted, have made bulbs from one to one and a 

 half inches in height, and those in leaf-mould have made bulbs over four 

 nches high, nicely furrowed, and showing nice flower spikes. 



Weak pieces of Cattleya Mendelii, Warneri, Mossias, and labiata, which 

 I am trying in leaf-mould, are progressing so well that I mean next year to 

 risk potting a lot of C. gigas in it too, as I think they will then not need 

 watering. will also try Laelia anceps of the alba types, which latter will 



need care. 



I may say that I mix some moss tops in among the leaf-mould to keep 

 it open and sweet, and finish off with a layer of rough peat and moss, which 

 keeps the mass of compost from drying on the surface sooner than under- 

 neath. This top course is put on in the way gardeners call quartering, i.e., 

 in pieces of moss and peat alternately. James Hamilton. 



Duns, N.B. 



In answer to your enquiries respecting my experience with leaf-mould, 

 I may say that I first tried it nearly two years ago on some very old and 

 worn out Cattleyas, Mossias and Trianae, and the general result was 

 surprising, for some of the plants, which I thought would never come round, 

 have done remarkably well and this is their second season in their new 

 compost. Being satisfied that with careful watering and attention the 

 new method was far away the best, we commenced putting everything 

 in it as the plants required potting, and this autumn I have put fifteen 

 hundred Odontoglossum crispum in it — after, of course, trying a few in it 

 for a season — and they are taking to the new compost very well, and pushing 

 fine strong growth. 



In using the leaf-soil we find it best to sift out most of the fine decayed 

 matter, as if left in it is inclined to get sodden. Afterwards we mix in a 

 little peat fibre and chopped sphagnum moss, which keeps it more open 

 than it would otherwise be, and then surface with nice green moss. 



My experience, which is only two seasons old, is that the plants require 

 very little water at the root, but mqre spraying between the pots, and on 

 the stages ; more light, and a little more air. I should be very glad indeed 

 if some older grower would give his experience with this material in your 

 valuable paper. Geo. G. Whitelegge. 



Old Southgate, N. 



[The group of Cattleya X Mantinii figured on page 337 speaks for itself, 



