THE ORCHID REVIEW. 371 
is best performed in the spring months in a compost of fibrous loam and 
_ peat in equal proportions, with sharp silver sand. They should be watered 
with great moderation during the winter months, and placed at the coolest 
end of the Intermediate or Cattleya house. Leia Perrinii is very pretty, 
and has now just passed out of flower. Unfortunately, its’ usefulness is 
greatly curtailed on account of its flowers being so short-lived. It should 
grow freely with the Cattleyas. 
Dendrobiums are now resting, and it is well that they should be inactive 
at this time of the year, and not be unduly excited until the days begin to 
lengthen and the sun gain power. No good purpose can be served by 
trying to force them to flower in mid-winter. For the cool resting kinds 
guard againt the possibility of the temperature becoming too cool for 
them, for if this happens the plants, although showing no outward signs of 
injury at the time, are greatly weakened, and often collapse during the 
following growing season. From 50° to 56° is a good figure toaim at. The 
thermometer will, of course, fall below and rise above for short periods, 
which will do no harm. Those plants which were the first to mature their 
new pseudobulbs will naturally be the first to produce flower buds, and 
when this is seen they should be given slight encouragement, so that they 
gradually grow and expand. D. Wardianum should be kept back more 
than any other, and not allowed to flower before March, if possible. There 
are some few Dendrobes which are never really at rest, but are continually 
growing, such as D. sanguinolentum, D. x rhodostoma, D. Dearei, D. 
Hookerianum, and D. Maccarthia. These and other similar kinds should 
be allowed to grow gently on, and not rested in the same way as the others. 
A correspondent asks, ‘‘ Does the fact that my pe *Ogloseums wie 
very slow in forming their bulbs imply any wrong impatiniont =” No! 
certainly not. I think it may generally be accepted, so long’ as Peonte, 
glossums are healthy-looking and strong, that slowness of growth is a 
favourable sign, and would indicate good treatment peat than “the 
Well-grown Odontoglossums generally seem slow growing, but they are also 
sure, and it is this latter which indicates good culture. If there De My 
attempt to force them on faster than they seem disposed to sahtie 
Properly cared for, good results are by no means certain. . @ siadie 
So long as the new pseudobulbs of Odontoglots and tse ves ecading 
develop well and strong, and, if anything, a little = z 
Ones, it is best not to care how long they meee do at + cmibict failed to 
There are two common errors in —— whic cupheme 
Notice often take place with inexp enences eee species that are in 
three following months. The first is by giving a roots. The second 
‘gfowth—warm and coobalike—too much water 3 and causing them to 
s keeping those kinds that are dormant too dry, 
become shrivelled up and yellow. 
