ICE CREAM MAKING 519 



added. The aim should be to obtain not less than 50 per cent, 

 and seldom more than 70 per cent, of increase. A swell of 80 

 per cent or more is usually obtained at the expense of body. 

 Ice cream must not be too fluffy, or it will fall or sink upon stand- 

 ing, and neither consumer nor producer will be satisfied. 



It is a fact that an ice cream the volume of which is approxi- 

 mately a third air is more satisfactory to the consumer than is 

 one containing no air. It has a more velvety feel on the tongue, 

 and conveys a sensation of richness without causing the un- 

 pleasant effects of an excessively rich cream, in the same way 

 that a whipped cream or a well-beaten egg seems richer than does 

 the same article in its natural state. Furthermore, the presence 

 of air in a finely divided form causes the whole mass to be in fact 

 partially insulated against heat conduction, so that an ice cream 

 containing air " stands up " better both in the mouth and on the 

 plate, than would the same cream if no air had been incorpo- 

 rated, and further, the whipped ice cream will chill the mouth and 

 stomach of the consumer far less than that made without air. 

 A demand that ice cream be served entirely devoid of air is no 

 more reasonable than would be a requirement that a loaf of 

 bread be held down to or compressed into the least possible 

 volume. They both need to be light in order to attain the high- 

 est palatability. 



the constituents of ice ckeam (adapted from Washburn) 



The cream 

 Flavor. 



The flavor of the cream to be used in ice cream making is an 

 important matter. Special attention should be given to its 

 selection and handling. Not only should it be free from the 

 food taints occasionally introduced by the cow, and free from 

 that "cowy " flavor which usually means merely manure flavor, 

 but it should also be devoid of those dirty dish-water flavors not 



