526 MANUAL OF MILK PRODUCTS 



Condensed milk. 



Condensed or evaporated milk is frequently used in ice 

 cream making ; and provided wholesome goods are used in not 

 immoderate quantities it has a legitimate place therein. It in- 

 creases the body and smoothness of the goods, without producing 

 that extreme richness in fat which would be required of a normal 

 cream to secure the same quality effect. Many ice cream 

 makers may find it to their advantage to purchase quantities of 

 the evaporated milk which has been partially churned in the 

 "breaking" process at the condensory. This milk is in every 

 respect as pure and wholesome as is any condensed milk, but 

 on account of these minute granules of butter is not sold on the 

 open market. By pouring the evaporated milk through a sieve 

 the granules will be removed, the loss will be insignificant and 

 the main product will be as valuable as though a higher price 

 had been paid for it. Better yet, where the ice cream maker 

 has access to a homogenizer the cans of partially churned or 

 clotty condensed milk may be emptied and the contents run 

 through the machine at a temperature of 170° to 180° with the 

 effect of restoring to the article much or all of the qualities 

 possessed by the normal and high priced goods. It goes without 

 saying, however, that the so-called "swells," i.e. goods faulty 

 because of fermentation within the can, cannot be thus used ; 

 and the semi-decomposed barrel goods, sometimes offered the 

 trade, are also tabooed. Either may be a fruitful source of 

 ptomaines. The use of such materials emphasizes the impor- 

 tance of thorough survey of each and every ingredient used in 

 the making of ice cream and the real inefficiency of any examina- 

 tion solely of the finished product. Unquestionably the occa- 

 sional use of such stuff has had much to do with the unfavorable 

 attitude of some food control officials towards the use of con- 

 densed milk as an ingredient of ice cream. 



