‘14 . THE ORCHID. REVIEW. [JANUARY, IQII. 
percentage make a fresh start, and soon grow into useful plants. The back 
bulbs of Leliocattleyas, Odontoglossums, and Dendrobiums are also 
induced to start by the same method. 
At the warmest end of the house, is another box-like frame, placed on _ 
the staging in an accessible position. In this the tiny seedlings, and pans 
containing Orchid seed, are kept. In winter, on cold nights, this box is 
covered with a pane of glass, which assists in maintaining an even 
temperature, which is of vital importance for the healthy development of the 
seedlings. This glass is propped open, either little or much, according to 
the weather and temperature of the house, and is removed entirely from 
May till September, as it is liable to cause the seedlings to damp. This I 
learnt by bitter experience, losing three promising seedlings of C. Dowiana 
aurea X citrina from this cause. I have repeated the cross several times, 
both ways, but have never even managed to get another seed pod. 
The seed of Lzliocattleyas and of Odontoglossums is sown on prepared 
beds, and placed in this box. Some sphagnum moss is rolled into a ball 
and wrapped in canvas, and this is placed in an Orchid pan. The seed is 
sown on this when ripe, and the moss is kept in an even state of moisture 
and the pan well shaded. Much trouble and time is naturally taken in 
raising Orchid seedlings, but anyone who has been successful never gives 
up this most fascinating branch of Orchidology. Water can only be given 
by means of a hand sprayer, and I am especially careful to use only 
pure rain water, poured through canvas before it is needed for the seedlings. 
At the opposite end of the house the Oncidiums are grown, but as their 
culture has already appeared in these pages (p. 359 of last issue), it need 
not be repeated here. 
Over these and along the centre of the house wires have been stretched 
and a yariety of Orchids hung from these. Vanda ccerulea is a great 
success, producing one and sometimes two flower spikes regularly each 
year from both plants. They are hung near the roof ventilator, and get 
abundance of pure, fresh air and light throughout the year. They are 
now grown in baskets, and do much better than when grown in pans down 
on the staging. A compost of polypodium and sphagnum moss is used for 
one, and osmunda and sphagnum for the other. Both plants are compact 
specimens, and have much improved since a teaspoonful of crushed nitrate 
of soda was added to their compost. I had formerly another plant, but it 
died whilst carrying a seed pod, being crossed with suavis. 
Stanhopea Wardii, suspended at the warmest end of the house, flowers 
well, but its blossoms are so soon over. This is grown in a teak basket in 
osmunda fibre alone. A little liquid manure water given once a fortnight 
during the summer encourages a better display of flowers. 
Several pans of seedling Dendrobiums of lost parentage, though two are 
