124 THE ORCHID REVIEW. 
and soon make large new pseudobulbs. The old bulbs may be potted up ~ 
by themselves, and will make further new leaves, which may ultimately be 
replaced with the mother plant, thus increasing the number of youthful and 
vigorous leads. 
This principle of catering for the production of new pseudobulbs at the 
-expense of the old should be well kept to the fore with all species of Orchids. 
All good cultivators fully realize the value of new vigorous growth for the 
production of healthy and handsome specimens. For example, you some- 
_ times see an Orchid with only one or two leads, occupying enormous pots 
or baskets large enough to accommodate probably a dozen of such leads. 
The reason of this is that the old pseudobulbs have been carefully preserved 
‘intact when repotting, which renders a large pot necessary, thus taking up 
much room, but producing no more flowers than a small pot with the same 
number of leads. I may say that the new growths ar: no stronger when 
backed by along array of ancestors—in fact they frequently show unmis- 
-takable signs or degeneracy. The number of old pseudobulbs to leave per 
new growth may be a matter of opinion, and when advising on this matter 
I always prefer to be on the safe side by leaving one too many rather than 
‘one too few. An unhealthy, rootless and shrivelled specimen may be 
denuded of its old pseudobulbs with greater impunity than a strong healthy 
one. Inthe case of Dendrobiums which flower from the new wood, like 
D. nobile and D. Wardianum, I would leave one to three old bulbs, while 
those which flower from the old wood, like D. fimbriatum and D. thyrsi- 
‘florum may have from three to six. For Cattleyas and Lelias, and indeed all 
other species, from three to five, or even six in extra strong specimens, may 
safely be a guide. 
There are other species of Cilicia that may now be potted. such as 
-C. Massangeana, C. tomentosa, C. speciosa, and any others that are starting. 
They all like a rather good bodied compost, and are better if more lumpy 
peat and less sphagnum moss be used, with a free addition of sharp sand 
-and finely broken charcoal. 
Cymbidium eburneum, C. tigrinum, C. Mastersii, and others in the same | 
condition of growth, may now be repotted. They are deep and free rooting 
species, and should therefore have fairly large pots, and not over-much 
drainage. Peat, well intermixed with sharp sand and finely broken crocks 
or charcoal, makes the best compost for them. A little loam may also be 
_added with advantage, but I don’t advise too much, as it in time settles 
.down so hard, preventing a tree access of air and water. Pot rather lightly, 
‘working the compost well down between the roots. At first water very 
-sparingly, but keep the surface and the foliage well moistened, to prevent 
loss of foliage and encourage growth. Intermediate temperature is the 
«best. 
\ 
