The Island and People of Martinique 215 



tain. These were all situated in the im- 

 mense gorge sloping westward from that 

 point now known as the Morne de la 

 Croix. It was satisfactorily ascertained 

 that the main force of the explosion had 

 been exerted within a perimeter of about 

 1,000 yards; that various hot springs 

 had suddenly gushed out, and — the tem- 

 perature of the least warm being about 

 57 degrees Reaumur (116 degrees Fah- 

 renheit) — that there was no change in 

 the configuration of the mountain, and 

 that the terrific sounds had been pro- 

 duced only by the violent outrush of 

 vapor and ashes from some of the rents. 

 In hope of allaying the general alarm, 

 a Creole priest climbed the summit of 

 the volcano and there planted the great 

 cross which gives the height its name 

 and still remains to commemorate the 

 event. 



ST. PIERRE 



St. Pierre is the quaintest, queerest, 

 and the prettiest withal among West 

 Indian cities — all stone-built and stone- 

 flagged, with very narrow streets, 

 wooden or zinc awnings, and peaked 

 roofs of red tile, pierced by gabled 

 dormers. Most of the buildings are 

 painted in a clear, yellow tone, which 

 contrasts delightfully with the burning 

 blue ribbon of tropical sky above, and 

 no street is absolutely level ; nearly all 

 of them climb hills, descend into hol- 

 lows, curve, twist, describe sudden 

 angles. There is everywhere a loud 

 murmur of running water, pouring 

 through the deep gutters contrived be- 

 tween the paved thoroughfare and the 

 absurd little sidewalks, varying in width 

 from one to three feet. The architecture 

 is that of the seventeenth century, and 

 reminds one of the antiquated French 

 quarter of New Orleans. All the tints, 

 the forms, the vistas, would seem to 

 have been especially selected or designed 

 for aquarelle studies. The windows are 

 frameless openings without glass ; some 

 have iron bars ; all have heavy wooden 



shutters with movable slats, through 

 which light and air can enter. 



THE PEOPLE 



Fantastic, astonishing — a population 

 of the "Arabian Nights." It is many- 

 colored, but the general dominant tint 

 is yellow. . . . Straight as palms, and 

 supple and tall, these colored women 

 and men impress one powerfully by their 

 dignified carriage and easy elegance of 

 movement. All, or nearly all, are with- 

 out shoes. . . . Perhaps the most 

 novel impression of all is that produced 

 by the singularity and brilliancy of cer- 

 tain of the women's costumes. Some 

 of these fashions suggest the Orient ; 

 they offer beautiful audacities of color 

 contrast, and the full-dress coiffure, 

 above all, is most striking. It is an 

 immense Madras handkerchief, which is 

 folded about the head with admirable 

 art, like a turban, one bright end, pushed 

 through at the top in front, being left 

 sticking up like a plume. Then this 

 turban, always full of bright canary 

 color, is fastened with golden brooches, 

 one in front and one at either side. As 

 for the remainder of the dress, it is sim- 

 ple enough — an embroidered, low-cut 

 chemise with sleeves ; a skirt or jupe, 

 very long behind, but caught up and 

 fastened in front below the breasts, so 

 as to bring the hem everywhere to a level 

 with the end of the long chemise, and, 

 finally, a foulard or silken kerchief, 

 thrown over the shoulders. These jupes 

 and foulards, however, are exquisite 

 in pattern and color — bright crimson, 

 bright yellow, bright blue, bright green, 

 lilac, violet, rose, sometimes mingled in 

 plaidings or checkerings or stripings - 

 black with orange, sky-blue with purple; 

 and whatever be the colors of the cos- 

 tume, which vary astonishingly, the 

 coiffure must be yellow — brilliant, flash- 

 ing yellow. The turban is certain to> 

 have yellow stripes or yellow squares. 

 To this display add the effect of costly 

 and curious jewelry, immense earrings, 



