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The National Geographic Magazine 



plished, following the glacier to its 

 source, 30 miles northwest of the vil- 

 lage of Arandu, and also throughout 

 their whole course three of its large 

 terminal tributaries. In all, 55 miles of 

 glacier were examined. This is the first 

 time the upper half of this glacier and 

 its branches have been visited. Its de- 

 lineation on the maps was found entirely 

 incorrect and mostly the work of imag- 

 ination. 



The Chogo Lungma ascends from its 

 end to its point of origin over 9,000 feet, 

 exceeding in this respect by 3,000 feet 

 the Biaf o Glacier, explored by the same 

 parties in 1899. It takes its rise in a 

 wall of ice and snow, the top of which 

 is 20,000 feet, connecting two high 

 peaks, one of which has been fixed by 

 the Indian Survey at 24,486 feet, and 

 the other is not much lower. 



Its upper part takes one among a 

 group of mountain massi/s, several of 

 which reach heights of over 24,000 feet, 

 in the highest degree beautiful, majestic, 

 and impressive. Its surface is much 

 broken. In many parts wide crevasses 

 seam it in every direction, huge seracs 

 of curious and varied forms shag it, 

 and in the higher portions ice falls tax 

 the skill of the explorer to find a way 

 through and around them. 



The glacier bears several large medial 

 moraines 80 to 100 feet high, contrib- 

 uted by the terminal branches. A deep 

 depression at one point is occupied by 

 a good-sized lake. Impassable ice falls 

 occur in most of the tributary glaciers. 

 The gradient is gentle except for the 

 last few miles, where it is sharp. 



One of the branch glaciers leads to a 

 broad ice pass at a height of 17,500 feet, 

 beneath the northern slopes of Mt. 

 Haramosh, 24,285 feet, whence another 

 glacier plunges rapidly downward to 

 valleys leading to the Indus. 



First ascents were made of four peaks 

 and two cols. One of the last, a wall 

 of ice covered with snow rising at angles 



of 45 to 6o°, afforded a climb of excep- 

 tional alpine difficulty. Every step had 

 to be cut from 6 a. m. to 1.30 p. m., 

 when the crowning ridge, something 

 over 19,000 feet, was reached. The 

 descent was more difficult and danger- 

 ous than the ascent, owing to the soften- 

 ing of the covering layer of snow by 

 the burning sun. 



The weather was unfavorable most 

 of the time. Scarcely two days in suc- 

 cession were clear. Much new soft 

 snow was met with in the higher parts 

 of all the glaciers, rendering progress 

 slow and difficult. The depth at one 

 point measured 34 inches, which was a 

 fair average over considerable distances 

 covered. The party was detained at 

 one high camp sixty hours by a severe 

 snow-storm. 



Many days and nights were passed 

 at high snow camps at altitudes of 16,000 

 to over 19,000 feet. Stone cairns were 

 built at points where the material for 

 building them existed, in which records 

 were left. 



To the three altitude records made 

 by Mrs Bullock Workman on the last 

 expedition, the highest being 21,000 

 feet, she has now added a fourth, being 

 the only woman who has made the first 

 ascent of one of the great Himalayan 

 glaciers or any other of equal size. 



The thanks of the explorers are due 

 to the English officials at Srinagar for 

 moral and material aid in obtaining 

 transport, and to His Highness the 

 Maharaja of Kashmir and his brother. 

 Gen. Raja Sir Amar Singh, who took 

 a friendly interest in the expedition, 

 ordering all officials along the route 

 taken to provide coolies and supplies 

 and render any other needful assist- 

 ance. 



Dr Karl Oestreich, of Frankfurt, ac- 

 companied the expedition as topogra- 

 pher and Mattia Zurbriggen and Muller 

 Giuseppi as guides. Man}' photographs 

 were secured. 



F. B. W. 



