Niagara Falls 



1816-17 Mr. Weld had detailed the impediments, and difficulties of this 

 approach, and M. Volney confesses they were such as to over- 

 come his exertions to surmount them ; a few years, however, have 

 made a great change; the present dangers, and difficulties may 

 be easily enumerated. The first is, the ordinary hazard every 

 one runs, who goes up, or down a ladder ; this is a very good one 

 of 30 steps, or about 40 feet; from thence the path is a rough 

 one, over the fragments, and masses of rock, which have gradu- 

 ally crumbled, or been forcibly riven, from the cliff, and which 

 cover a broad declining space, from its base to the river brink. 

 The only risk in this part of the pilgrimage, is that of a broken 

 shin from a false step. The path grows smooth as it advances 

 to the fall, so that the undivided attention may be given to this 

 imposing spectacle. I felt a sensation of awe as I drew near 

 it, like that caused by the first cannon on the morning of battle. 

 I passed from sunshine into gloom and tempest: the spray beat 

 down in a heavy rain; a violent wind rushed from behind the 

 sheet of water: it was difficult to respire, and for a moment, it 

 seemed temerity to encounter the convulsive workings of the 

 elements, and intrude into the dark dwellings of their power: 

 but the danger is in appearance only; it is possible to penetrate 

 but a few steps behind the curtain, and in these few, there is no 

 hazard; the footing is good, and the space sufficiently broad and 

 free: there is not even a necessity for a guide, two eyes amply 

 suffice to point out all that is to be seen, or avoided. During my 

 first visit, there were two young American ladies on the same 

 errand, who were drenched, as well as myself, in the cloud of 

 spray. In my opinion, more is lost than gained, by this facility. 

 The effect produced upon us, by any object of admiration, is 

 increased by the difficulties of approaching it: the imagination 

 does not suffer to be thrown away, a single particle of all that 

 has been expended in the pursuit. . . . For Niagara, I 

 foresee that in a few years travellers will find a finger post, " To 

 the Falls' Tea Gardens," with cakes, and refreshments, set out 

 on the Table Rock. 



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