Travelers' Original Accounts Since 1840 



sixpence; and on the right ascend to the knight's bed, price six- 1858-61 

 pence more, with a view of the hermit's tomb thrown in. But ro ope 

 nevertheless the tower is worth mounting, and no money is 

 charged for the use of it. It is not very high, and there is a 

 balcony at the top on which some half dozen persons may 

 stand at ease. Here the mystery is lost, but the whole fall is seen. 

 It is not even at this spot brought so fully before your eye, 

 made to show itself in so complete and entire a shape, as it will 

 do when you come to stand near to it on the opposite or Cana- 

 dian shore. But I think that it shows itself more beautifully. 

 And the form of the cataract is such that here, on Goat Island, 

 on the American side, no spray will reach you, although you are 

 absolutely over the waters. But on the Canadian side, the road 

 as it approaches the fall is wet and rotten with spray, and you, 

 as you stand close upon the edge, will be wet also. The rain- 

 bows as they are seen through the rising cloud — for the sun's 

 rays as seen through these waters show themselves in a bow, as 

 they do when seen through rain — are pretty enough, and are 

 greatly loved. For myself, I do not care for this prettiness at 

 Niagara. It is there, but I forget it, and do not mind how 

 soon it is forgotten. 



But we are still on the tower; and here I must declare that 

 though I forgive the tower, I cannot forgive the horrid obelisk 

 which has latterly been built opposite to it, on the Canadian side, 

 up above the fall; built apparently — for I did not go to it — 

 with some camera-obscura intention for which the projector 

 deserves to be put in Coventry by all good Christian men and 

 women. At such a place as Niagara tasteless buildings, run up 

 in wrong places with a view to money making, are perhaps neces- 

 sary evils. It may be that they are not evils at all; that they 

 give more pleasure than pain, seeing that they tend to the enjoy- 

 ment of the multitude. But there are edifices of this description 

 which cry aloud to the gods by the force of their own ugliness 

 and malposition. As to such, it may be said that there should 



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