Niagara Falls 



1864 consisted of a remarkably thin threadbare flannel shirt, a much 

 thinner and much more threadbare pair of flannel drawers, a pair 

 of flannel socks or slippers, and a cord round the waist ; the whole 

 surmounted by an oilskin skull-cap. I never felt more like a 

 maniac who persisted in confining his street toilette to " hat band 

 and straps," or realized more painfully the confusing effect of 

 the penetrating glances of half a dozen young ladies, than on 

 the occasion when our little party in Indian file threaded the 

 gauntlet of the inquisitive ones who had drawn up to see us 

 enter the cave. But a bold face and buoyant spirits were neces- 

 sary for the work that lay before us. After a few words of 

 counsel from the guide about not being frightened, but keeping 

 straight ahead, and energetic assurances that we should not be 

 drowned — though we should be sure to fancy that would be 

 the result, for everyone, he said, thought so at first — we 

 descended some steps that led right down into the spray of the 

 Fall, and at the bottom came upon a path or narrow ledge that 

 wound along the cliff inside the archway of the Fall. 



From the moment that we left the stairs, we got into a fine 

 pelting rain that gradually increased in weight and volume, till 

 it bore down upon our skull-caps like hail upon a skylight. But 

 the cave lay on the further side of the sheet of water, through 

 which we had to get as best we could. How that was, I cannot 

 tell you. The guide led the way into the steam and turmoil, 

 bending himself nearly double to keep the beating spray from his 

 nostrils, and clinging on to the slimy rock, for the foothold was 

 slippery and difficult. I believe I did the same, but I cannot 

 say. The guide was immediately lost to our view ; and all that I 

 could hear, amid the thunder of the cataract beside us, was an 

 injunction to push on when it came to the worst, for the illogical 

 reason that it was shorter to get beyond the sheet of water than 

 to turn back. I cannot describe to you what a terrifying scene 

 it was — how the waters roared around us — how the stifling 



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