164 NOTES OE TRAVEL IN CHINA. 



extending up the sides of the mountains as far as prudence sanctions,, 

 ornament the rear of the city. The streets are wide and well filled 

 with Chinamen, among whom are intermingled people from every 

 quarter of the globe. Some of the gay scarfs and variegated 

 turbans of the Hindoos, as contrasted with the bare shoulders of 

 the natives of the country, add much to the novelty of the picture. 

 The buildings of the tradesmen are of wood, two stories high, the 

 lower part being entirely open and in design reminding one of 

 butchers' stalls. At night closely fitting shutters are put up. The 

 rent of these places being high, if the lessee is not in good circum- 

 stances he frequently invites within his narrow limits two or three 

 other tradesmen of different pursuits, who carry on their business 

 independently of each other, but contribute an equal proportion to- 

 wards the payment of the rent. A portrait painter, a tailor, and a 

 shoemaker form a trio : a copper-smith, a tin-smith and an um- 

 brella maker also affiliate ; a hatter and a watchmaker, a haber- 

 dasher and a vender of ivory curiosities, and others of equally 

 opposite pursuits, are seen working together. As many workmen 

 are required to enable their masters to fulfil their engagements, all 

 of whom are huddled together in this single room, which answers 

 the purposes of workhouse, warehouse and shop : their numbers 

 disincline a customer to go beyond the threshold, but he has such, 

 articles brought to the door as he desires to examine with the view 

 of making a purchase. 



Between the southern limits of the city and the Barracks, is a. 

 large public reserve of several acres which is much frequented by 

 idle Chinamen, who resort thither to while away the day by gambling 

 and sleeping. Peripatetic barbers and itinerant pastry cooks, 

 migratory venders of medicine, and wandering booksellers, strolling 

 fruiterers and roving conjurors, fill up the interval, and the unnatural 

 sounds which some of them bellow forth in recommendation of their 

 articles strike harshly on the ear of the foreigner. Passing along 

 the general thoroughfare will be seen groups of Chinamen, some- 

 wearing long blue gowns reaching down to their feet and exhibiting, 

 from below a pair of dark cloth shoes, with paper soles of an inch in 

 thickness. One hand is uplifted and holds between the sun and the 

 head of the Chinaman, an open fan or out-spreading umbrella, while 

 the other is engaged in twirling and lashing against his sides, the 

 celebrated queue which is dearer than life itself. The hair is shaven 

 off the head excepting on the crown, from which it is allowed to 

 grow as long as nature will permit it, but the Chinaman above the 

 order of coolies, (which are the lowest and most degraded class in 



