166 NOTES OF TRAVEL IN CHINA. 



sticks, wax tapers, and " chow-chow," or food, which is served up in 

 small dishes, and consists of cold tea, and different species of 

 fruit ; but the loss of appetite which this uncomplaining favorite 

 invariably manifests, if not a matter of wonder to its indulgent 

 devotee, is at least an occasion of profit. Over head is a cjdindrical 

 frame-work covered with double matting, the inner one being made 

 of straw, and the outer of split rattan. It protects the inmates of 

 the boat from the tropical sun, or pelting rains which are very 

 frequent. 



The cooking takes place in the after part of the boat, each one 

 being provided with a stone or earthenware portable kitchen, which 

 rests between the decks, and is covered over in wet weather, or 

 when the smoke becomes disagreeable to those on board. 



The other parts of the boat are used as lockers, store-rooms, or 

 sleeping apartments ; in fact, the Chinamen sleep all over the boat, 

 as often on deck as below : a Chinaman's bed consisting merely of a 

 mat and split rattan pillow. Should the night be cold, instead of 

 wrapping themselves up in blankets, they put on one suit of clothes 

 over the other until they feel comfortable. It is a common sight on 

 a chilly day to see a Chinaman with all his wardrobe on at once, and 

 presenting a portly appearance with which nature never endowed 

 him. 



The boats carry one or two masts and large sails made of matting, 

 both of which are lowered on deck when they cannot be used. 



The oars are composed of two pieces of wood, the blade being 

 bound to the loom by means of cords. At the upper end of the 

 loom is a transverse piece of wood about five inches in length and 

 one in diameter, which is used as a handle, and on which the oarsman 

 can have a good purchase. Instead of row locks, there are pins 

 about fifteen inches in height, generally having a slight curvature 

 in them, and graduated by notches, from one of which a small 

 Joop of straw rope is suspended, through which the oar is thrust. 



Sometimes the Chinamen sit down on the deck and pull as 

 Europeans do, but their custom is to stand up facing the bow of the 

 boat and work the oar from the shoulder. The women labor as hard 

 as the men, and in nearly every boat will be observed one or more 

 having an infant slung on to her back, which is rocked to sleep by the 

 exertions of its mother. 



The appearance of the children is disgusting. No attention is 

 paid to their sanitary condition, and they are allowed to grow up 

 without appreciating the detersive property of water. Their play 

 mates are cockroaches, which although they exceed them in numbers 



