24 ACANTHOPTERYGII. 



far as its middle. These are set in accordance with certain inshore marks known 

 to the fisherman. The foot rope must touch the bottom or the fish will pass 

 under it. The reason they are occasionally taken in drift nets is assumed to be 

 that when changing their locality they swim near the surface even if the water 

 is very deep. Occasionally they take a bait. 



Immediately one is captured, or as soon as landed, the scales are stripped off 

 by the thumb nail, which occasions a contraction of the pigment cells, for were 

 this not done the brilliant red colour observed in the fishmongers' shops would 

 be less apparent and the fish of less value for the table. Irrespective of this, 

 were the scales not so removed, and the fish to dry, as it would, while in transit 

 to the market, they (the scales) become very adherent, and are with some difficulty 

 removed without breaking the skin, which would occasion disfigurement. Those 

 caught in a trammel being less bruised than such as are taken in a trawl keep 

 longer and are more valued. 



Breeding. — In Britain the striped surmullets, both male and female, are met 

 with spawning along the south coast from July to September. Mr. Dunn observes 

 that "they shed only a little at a time, continuing their spawning probably over 

 a month, and different from all other fish I know. They get very fat at this 

 time." By October there are young, about 2 inches in length, and from one 

 eighth to one quarter of an ounce in weight. 



As food. — This fish is held in high estimation throughout most of Continental 

 Europe as well as in this country. In France the plain red mullets of Provence 

 and Toulon are most valued, while in Britain the finest examples of Surmullets 

 are obtained from the English Channel. Its flesh is of good flavour, white, firm, 

 flaky, destitute of fat and easy of digestion. It attains its highest perfection 

 dtiring the summer months, but is seen throughout the year in London 

 fishmongers' shops. Its liver is usually deemed its most savoury morsel, to which 

 its head was formerly considered next in delicacy. 



This fish when cooked is usually not opened, only its gills being removed, on 

 which account it is termed the " woodcock of the sea," it is closely wrapped up in a 

 sheet of buttered paper securely tied with packthread. It is then roasted in a 

 Dutch oven, or gently broiled over a clear fire, or baked for 20 or 25 minutes. For 

 sauce the liquor which exudes is added to melted butter, some essence of anchovy 

 and a little lemon juice. A glass of port-wine or claret may be used as an 

 addition. In Venice it is eaten soused : the fish is kept soaking some time in a 

 pickle of capsicum vinegar before being eaten. 



Habitat. — From Scandinavia through the seas and coasts of temperate Europe. 

 While in the North Atlantic it extends as far south as Madeira and the Canary 

 Isles. It also abounds in the Mediterranean, Adriatic, and is found in the 

 Black Sea. The most abundant form in the Mediterranean appears to be the 

 M. barbatus, while the larger striped variety, M. surmuletus, is common in the 

 North Atlantic. 



In England the surmullet is most numerous along the south and west coasts, 

 rapidly decreasing in numbers as we go northwards, still in some seasons they are 

 abundant off the county of Norfolk ; thus in 1831 during one week in May 10,000 

 were despatched from Yarmouth to London (Paget). 



In Scotland Pennant stated he had heard of its capture but did not see the 

 fish : it has been recorded from the Moray Frith (Gordon), and both it and the 

 plain red mullet from Banffshire (Edward). 



The plain red mullet has been taken in Berwickshire (Johnson) and at 

 Falmouth (Cock). Mr. Dunn at Mevagissey tells me that he has never seen an 

 example during the many years he has been engaged on fish and fishing. 



In Ireland the surmullet was included among the indigenous fish by Brown in 

 1774 : it has also been taken in Ventry Harbour (Andrews) ; Dublin Bay 

 ("Warren) ; Ballinskelligs Bay (Earl of Diicie). 



The usual size of this fish is from 1 to 2 lb., and about 14 inches in length ; 

 but an example has been recorded from Penzance taken in a trammel in October, 

 1875, and which was 16f inches long, and weighed 2 lb. 6£ oz. (Cornish), while 

 Yarrell records one of 3 lb. 6 oz. taken at Weymouth. At Mevagissey it has 

 likewise been captured 17 inches in length. 



