122 SOURCES OF THE SASKATCHEWAN 



The next two days we advanced only about ten miles because 

 of the uncertainty of the trails, the rough nature of the forests, 

 and repeated crossings of the river. Our progress was slow in 

 spite of our custom of having one or two men explore and cut 

 out the trail for the next day as far as possible each afternoon. 

 In this place the river is at the bottom of a narrow valley, the 

 sides of which are smooth precipices adorned here and there by 

 clumps of trees clinging to the ledges. Streams and springs 

 from far above come down in delicate curtains of spray or grace- 

 ful waterfalls wafted from side to side by ever} r breeze. The 

 flood of glacialwaters sweeps over a gravel-wash in a network 

 of channels, with the main body of water swinging from one side 

 to another of the valley and washing against steep or inaccessi- 

 ble banks. This condition of things caused us to cross and re- 

 cross the stream almost constantly, and, though the fords were 

 in general not more than three feet deep, the icy waters ran with 

 such force that our crossings were not without excitement. In 

 spite of the best judgment and care of our packers horses got 

 beyond their depth several times and had to swim across. As 

 the saddle-horses are guided by riders, they rarely lose their 

 footing, but the pack-animals, coming along in a bunch, confused 

 by the shouting of the men and the roar of the rapids, hesitate 

 and often enter the river a little above or below the best ford, 

 and so get into deep water. Dangerous rapids or a log jam be- 

 low make such occasions critical, not alone for the safety of the 

 horses, but even for the success of an expedition in case a large 

 quantity of provisions is lost. Pack-horses cannot swim very 

 far with their tight cinches, and moreover the icy waters of these 

 mountain streams paralyze their muscles very quickly. 



The trail at length leaves the river and makes a rapid ascent 

 through forests on the east side of the valley, so that in an hour 

 we had gained 1,000 feet. Through the trees we caught glimpses 

 of magnificent scenery, the uniting streams in the canyon bot- 

 tom, the mountain sides heavily timbered or rising into snow 

 summits, and to the west an immense glacier, which was the 

 source of the largest stream. The North Fork was rapidly di- 

 viding into its ultimate tributaries. The sound of mountain 

 streams falling in cascades, the picturesque train of horses, each 

 animal cautiously picking a safe passage along the rocky path- 

 way; the splendid trees around us, our great height, and the 

 tremendous grandeur of the mountain scenery, all helped to 

 make our surroundings most enjoyable. Above the sound of 



