Where East Meets West 



335 



SARAJEVO PACK PONIES EN ROUTE TO MARKET 



smoking cigarettes, and listening with 

 great contentment to wild gipsy music or 

 monotonous ballads of long dead kings. 



Coffee and cigarettes, everywhere good 

 and cheap, seem to be the chief articles 

 of subsistence of the Bosnians, who con- 

 sume an incredible amount of both (we 

 were told some of the men limited them- 

 selves to ioo each per day), and though 

 we have watched them at all hours at 

 work in their little open-fronted shops, 

 we rarely saw them eat any solid food ! 



A FEW DAYS IN BOSNIA 



But to see the country as it was in the 

 old, unrep-enerate davs before the Aus- 



trian occupation, we went to Jayce. This 

 little town now lies off the beaten track, 

 but was once the center of the important 

 Banyat of Jayce, and is today the pret- 

 tiest place imaginable, with its quaint 

 shingled or stucco painted houses, 

 mosques, and fountains. The surround- 

 ing country is lovely, the falls, just above 

 the town, where the Pliva, flowing from 

 the lake of Jesero, precipitates itself into 

 the Vrbas below in a leap of a hundred 

 feet, being really remarkable. We drove 

 one morning to Jesero, not far away, on 

 the lake of the same name, between 

 deeply wooded hills, which afford good 

 cover to all sorts of game, while on the 



