672 



The National Geographic Magazine 



A MOUNTAIN TRAIL OVERLOOKING THE VALLEY OF CUZCO 



Cuzco. Arriving at the coach station in 

 a suburb of the city, Mr Adams and I 

 were informed by our cholo (half-breed) 

 driver that vehicles were not allowed "on 

 the streets of the metropolis." We ar- 

 gued in vain, and twilight fell as we 

 trudged along the rocky road to town, 

 loaded down with innumerable bags, 

 boxes, and cameras. We surely had 

 little to look forward to in an Andean 

 hotel. 



A British traveler tells of a time when 

 he was arrested on entering a highland 

 town of Peru, mistaken for an embezzler 

 who had escaped from Lima. He spent 

 some days in the local jail before his 

 identity was established. Then he was 

 released, with many apologies, and al- 

 lowed to proceed to the hotel. After 

 looking the place over hurriedly he re- 

 turned to the jail, and asked permission 

 to occupy his old quarters during the re- 

 mainder of his stay. • - 



There are several hostelries in Cuzco, 

 and we "took a chance" at the "Hotel 

 del Comercio," facing the Plaza de Ar- 

 mas. It had the reputation of being the 

 best hotel in the town, but we paid only 

 two soles (one dollar) each a day for room 

 and board. The court-yard was strewn 

 with rubbish and the room assigned to us 

 had canvas partition walls extending only 

 half way to the ceiling — quite a neigh- 

 borly idea! The room was dirty and 

 cold and the less said about the table the 

 better. However, we put up with dis- 

 comforts without complaint, finding so 

 much in compensation. 



It is such an interesting and pictur- 

 esque old city. Cartegena, Colombia, has 

 second place with me among the many 

 romantic cities of Latin America, but 

 Cartegena de los Indies has not the pre- 

 historic interest of Cuzco and lacks its 

 unusual types. 



The' morning' after our arrival a rag- 



