T A U T O G A . 257 



spines, projecting their points above the web, and 

 two spinous rays behind the vent. 



Those who are best acquainted with the quali- 

 ties of the tautog, will acknowledge that it is far 

 from being handsomely formed. The projecting 

 teeth, the narrow head, rolling lips and dorsal 

 spears, are somewhat forbidding points ; but the 

 various ways in which the cook presents it, does 

 away the first unfavorable impressions. It has 

 long been esteemed a delicate, nutritious, finely 

 flavored food, superior to most of the edible species 

 in this section of the country. Baking and boil- 

 ing are said to be the preferable modes of cook- 

 ing it. 



The tautog abounds in the vicinity of Long 

 Island, near New York, and probably rarely leaves 

 the salt water ; like the sturgeon, and other ana- 

 dromous fishes, it has not been detected in any of 

 the rivers emptying into Long Island sound. In 

 the vicinity of rocks, reefs jutting into the ocean, 

 and over rocky bottoms, are the localities where 

 the fishermen seek it. It is said, that in cars, the 

 tautog may be fattened, and much improved in 

 flavor. 



After severe cold weather commences, it is a 

 curious fact in the history of this fish, that a mem- 

 brane forms over the vent, entirely closing it, and 

 food is no longer required, — indeed they refuse 

 17 



