THE ANCIENT PIT-DWELLERS OF YEZO. 423 



to visit them if possible. My Japauese servant bargained for a native 

 fishing-boat to carry me over, and the lowest price offered was $30 for 

 the trip. In such a craft the trip would not be without danger, and it 

 might be a voyage of either a day or a week. Fortunately I had already 

 made the acquaintance of two other foreigners who were traveling for 

 pleasure and observation, and as we happened to be together in Nemuro, 

 they had become interested iu my proposed visit to Shikotau. But the 

 fishing-boat plan did not seem to be well received by either of them. M. 

 Lereux, chef de musique at Tokio, one day hailed me on the street with 

 the news that iu four days a steamer was going to Yeterof and would 

 stop for us atShikotan. Mr. Odium, a botanist, joiued us, and at 3:45 

 a. in., on August 9, the Yoshinomaru with her three foreign passengers 

 and a load of salt for the fisheries of Yeterof, steamed from her anchor- 

 age in the harbor. I was on deck before sunrise, but already we were 

 outou the heaving water. Toward the south the terraced shores of Yezo 

 could be dimly traced as far as the eye could reach. Toward the north 

 the volcanic range of the Menashi Peuiusula was capped with snow. At 

 half-past eight we were abreast of Kuuashiri at the point where Chia-chia 

 towers as a regular volcanic cone and slopes ou one side in graceful, un- 

 broken coucave to the sea. Shikotan had already been sighted and now 

 lay close at haud on the starboard bow, while Yeterof was visible in the 

 distance. But it was noon before we anchored in the harbor, entering 

 through a beautiful narrow passage between high, bold, gray cliffs of 

 sandstone, concealed here and there with patches of green. Within 

 lies a quiet bay with a verdant valley, inclosed on every haud by moun- 

 tains and brush covered hills. 



The settlement (Plate lxxv) consists of eighteen houses arranged on 

 opposite sides of a single street which runs directly back from the sandy 

 beach. The number of inhabitants is at present uncertain — one in- 

 formant told us sixty, another sixty-five. They are in appearance a 

 well-formed, hardy people, but they are fast dying off. Subsisting on 

 the most miserable food, bulbous roots, green tops of plants, and a pit- 

 tance of rice from the Japanese Government ; not properly clothed, and 

 unable to obtain the fish and other things which in their native isles were 

 so abundant, disease, especially consumption, has made fearful havoc 

 among them. Iu five years their number has decreased one-third. The 

 Japanese are now trying to better their condition, but past neglect has 

 done its work. The people can not subsist without aid where they 

 now live, and in any event they will soon disappear from the face of 

 the earth. The picture of the group here shown (Plate lxxvi) is 

 probably the only one ever made of these people. It was taken on the 

 beach just below the Japanese official residence, which is conspicuous 

 iu the picture. In the background may be seen many plain slabs mark- 

 ing the final resting-places of many poor souls who succumbed to the 

 privations of a few years in a home not of their own choosing. It will 

 be noticed that the people are clothed iu European dress. This is be- 



