CHAP. LXIX. ^lUCA'cEiE. 1101 



sand pressed down very firm. After being well watered, the pot is then fit to 

 receive the cuttings." Mr. M'Nab prefers " pit-sand for striking heath cut- 

 tings in ; the colour of which is of little importance, whether white, grey, 

 or yellowish : it should, however, be as free as possible from earthy and 

 irony matter. The length of the cuttings must depend on the habit of 

 the species. Of some of the free-growing sorts, they may be about 1 i in . 

 long ; and from other sorts, that are of a more stinted growth, they may not 

 exceed half an inch in length : in both cases, they should be taken from the 

 plant at the part where the young shoot springs from the older wood. The 

 leaves should be stripped off about half the length of the cutting, carefully, 

 and so as not to wound the bark ; and the end should be cut clean across with 

 a sharp knife or with scissors. The cutting is then fit to be inserted into the 

 pot prepared for its reception. In all ordinary cases, pots of the size above 

 mentioned will hold many different kinds of heaths. In extensive nursery 

 collections, where great quantities of plants are wanted, one pot may be filled 

 with cuttings of the same species, when such can be got in sufficient quan- 

 tities; but in private collections this is not necessary, for, in general, only a few 

 plants of a sort are all that are required. When this is the case, the kinds 

 selected to be put in the same pot should be as nearly of the same habit as 

 can be estimated at the time : for example, supposing four pots are intended 

 to be filled with cuttings, the following sorts may be selected for each pot : — 



First Pot. E'ctasis melastoma, Petivenj, Sebarart, Plukenet/i var. penicillata, &c. 

 Second Pot. Syringbdea pinea, pinifblia, vestlta, grandiflora, purpurea, &c. 

 Third Pot. Callista ventricosa, pra'gnans ; Syringbdea lAimazana, Ymnsabldes, colbrans, &c. 

 Fourth Pot. Eurylbma Aitonrnwajjasminiflora, ampullacea, Irbyona, &c 



Unless this, or some similar mode of selection, be attended to, one sort will 

 be found to strike root in a much shorter time than others in the same pot, 

 which will be inconvenient when potting them out. . . . When the pot is filled 

 with the cutting?, it should be well watered with a watering-pot having a fine 

 rose ; and placed in a close shady part of the stove ; admitting as little air 

 as possible near to where the pots of cuttings are placed, and taking care to 

 water them freely every day. Indeed, when treated as above directed, there is 

 little risk of over-watering them ; for, in consequence of their being well drained, 

 the water is allowed to pass freely through; and, so far from injuring the cuttings, 

 they are benefited by it." Mr. M'Nab adds, that he is " convinced that all Cape 

 heaths will strike in this way, when good cuttings can be procured of them." He 

 very seldom uses bell-glasses for heath cuttings ; nor does he " consider them 

 necessary for heaths in general. Some of them, however, which are more difficult 

 to strike, such as Eurystegia (E.) glauca, Syringodea (E.) aurea, Lamprotis 

 (E.) texifolia, and a few other species, may be put under bell-glasses, and placed 

 in the stove beside the others. Where no stove is at hand to put the pots of 

 cuttings in, and where the situation in which they are to be placed has much 

 air, then bell-glasses are absolutely necessary. The pots, in this case, should 

 be prepared for the cuttings, which are to be covered with bell-glasses, in the 

 same way as before recommended. The size of the pot must be regulated 

 by the size of the glass which is intended to cover the cuttings. The glass, 

 in this case, will require to be wiped occasionally, to prevent any damp from 

 injuring the cuttings ; and, when they have struck root, the glass should be 

 removed gradually, some time before the cuttings are potted out." Mr. M'Nab 

 believes " that cuttings of heaths will strike root when put in at any season, 

 if the cuttings are in a proper state ; that is, when the young shoots are just 

 old and firm enough to prevent them from damping off when first put 

 in. Early in the spring, however," he considers " to be the best time for 

 them ; as the cuttings will then be rooted, and potted out, in sufficient time to 

 get established in the pots before the following winter. . . . When the cut- 

 tings are rooted, which will be easily known by their beginning to grow freely, 

 they should be potted into the smallest-sized pots, and kept for ten days or 

 a fortnight in a close shaded place; they may then be gradually exposed in 

 a more airy part of the green-house, care being taken to shade them for a few 



