METHOD OF PUPATION. 



There is no trouble in telling when larvae are about to pupate. They stop 

 eating for a day or two, empty their intestines, shrink and diminish in size and 

 perhaps grow limp and apparently lifeless. Some are exceedingly restless and 

 crawl excitedly about their cages. If at liberty they may be found crawling in 

 roads or over bare ground. The butterfly larvae may spin buttons of silk under 

 the top or on the sides of their cage, insert their anal hooks in these and hang 

 suspended, head downward. Under the covers of tin boxes or glass-covered boxes, 

 should be placed a thickness of scrim, netting or mosquito bar to which such 

 caterpillars may attach themselves. Sticks or branches should be provided to 

 which the silk-spinners may attach their cocoons. When larvae disappear in the 

 earth at the bottom of the cage do not dig them up to see what they are doing. 

 Curb your curiosity and let them alone. Let all pupae alone for a few days in 

 order that their covering (chitine) may harden. In all probability those which 

 burrow in the earth will form tubular, oval or circular holes and cement or gum 

 the interior so as to form a smooth lining within which the pupa may safely and 

 snugly rest. A silken envelope rn^y separate the pupa from the inner surface of 

 the earthen hole. Sometimes a ball of earth as large as a bowl is formed about 

 the pupa. If cages are not provided with earth these larvae will pupate upon the 

 bottom of a tin box or glass jar. This is unnatural and unsatisfactory but when 

 the time arrives they must undergo the transformation. 



PUPAL CAGES. 



Theoretically it would be better to leave pupae in the earth where the larvae 

 burrow, or on the tops and sides of the cages where they are formed. Many 

 weak larvae, however, die during the transformation and their decay breeds disease. 

 Moreover, it is difficult to afford pupae in breeding cages, and especially in boxes, 

 cages and glass jars, the proper moisture required. If kept too dry or too wet 

 they surely perish, and over-crowding breeds disease. The better plan is to keep 

 them in specially prepared pupal cages whose sides are protected by fine wire 

 gauze to keep out enemies. A framework surrounded by cheese-cloth and con- 

 taining trays arranged like shelves, may be suspended by wires covered with tangle 

 foot, forms a convenient cage, and will accommodate large numbers of cocoons. 

 Of course, if you have only a few cocoons you may keep them safely in tin or 

 wooden boxes, but if you have hundreds or thousands cages should be provided. 



CARE OF COCOONS. 



Safety, light, ventilation, a cool place, occasional spraying with an atomizer, 

 cleanliness, care, the least possible handling or disturbance, are the main requisites 

 for keeping cocoons. Earth, sand v sawdust, a folded blanket, or best of all, 

 sphagnum (the moss used by florists), should cover the bottom of trays or boxes 

 and form a soft bed upon which the cocoons should be laid. As far as possible 

 lay them with their backs up. On the underside of naked pupae are the outlines 

 of legs, wings, etc., and the tongue cases of certain species. A slight covering 

 of loose sphagnum should be laid over them to retain moisture. Do not cover 

 them with sand or earth, or expose them to sunshine, rain or freezing tempera- 

 tures. A garret, a ventilated cellar or basement, or any room which is not heated 

 should be selected for the cages. If you fail to spray or sprinkle them with water 

 occasionally their cases and tissues will dry up. If you keep them too wet you 

 invite fungoid diseases. 



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