of an inch of the opposite corner and letting it project a quarter of an inch 

 beyond the opposite side of the paper. When these projecting sides are folded 

 the envelope is complete. I prefer taking a square piece of paper, folding the 

 opposite corners together, folding the edges of one side, and after the fly is 

 placed in the envelope, folding the edges of the other side, thus sealing the three- 

 cornered envelope. I purchase druggist's wrapping paper by the ream, take it to 

 the printing office and have it cut into squares of different sizes, say 3x3 inches, 

 4x4 inches, 5x5 inches, etc., cutting the squares to the best advantage according 

 to the size of the sheet. Placing each size in a separate box, I fold a great many 

 envelopes in my spare moments, and with a needle and thread string them together 

 in lots of about one hundred. A small knot in the end of the thread allows you 

 to pull one off whenever it is needed. Tissue paper is not good because it is not 

 thick enough to afford any protection to the butterfly or its appendages if the paper 

 is accidentally bent. Very heavy paper is so stiff and hard that it may spoil a 

 delicate butterfly because it is so inelastic. A good quality of ordinary newspaper 

 is highly recommended and ordinary writing paper is not bad. Printed newspaper, 

 in a moist atmosphere, may communicate its ink to the specimen. Cut an ordinary 

 envelope in two and each half will hold a specimen. 



PRESERVING A COLLECTION. 



The object of this lesson is to impress upon the mind of the beginner that 

 the preservation of specimens is of even greater importance than their acquisition. 

 Keep your collection in close fitting boxes, drawers or cabinets which are permeated 

 with the odor of naphtha or any other good insecticide and your butterflies and 

 moths will be perfect for untold years. Schmitt boxes and cabinets are best and 

 in the long run are 'cheapest, but home-made cabinets and drawers can be made 

 safe and serviceable. Cigar boxes have been urged simply from an economical 

 standpoint and if kept in tight chests, cupboards or closets will last several lifetimes. 

 I have cigar boxes of perfect specimens over forty years old from my father's collec- 

 tion. Light fades the hues of all butterflies and ruins delicate colorings. Expose 

 specimens to light as little as possible. Constantly guard against dermestids, dust, 

 light, heat, dampness. Keep your collection in cool, dry, dark, dust-proof, insect- 

 proof boxes and drawers and the brilliancy and freshness of the specimens will not 

 be impaired in a thousand years. Endeavor to retain at least one pair of absolutely 

 perfect examples of each species of your locality and you will soon have a collec- 

 tion that is of value to science. Whenever you suspect dermestids, a little chloro- 

 form, gasoline, formalin or other good disinfectant poured in the bottom of the 

 boxes will destroy the pests. 



NAMING AND LABELING. 



During the busy collecting season your greatest care is to get your output 

 pinned or papered in boxes. I use ordinary cigar boxes which the newsboys in San 

 Francisco collect for one cent each from the cigar stands. Last season's catch, 

 together with the bred specimens, required 500 cigar boxes. At the close of the 

 season I sort the species and send perfect samples of each to Dr. Barnes for deter- 

 mination. When the list of correct names is returned every specimen must have 

 attached proper date and locality labels. Charles V. Blackburn, 1 2 Pine Street, 

 Stoneham, Mass., prints my labels in diamond type and gives perfect satisfaction, 

 though doubtless many printers would do as well. If you write Mr. Blackburn he 

 will send you a full line of samples. Your name, the locality and the exact date 

 when the insect was caught or hatched should be pinned beneath the specimen. 



Ill 



