8 The Nile as a Sanatorium. 



foul smells, and the traveller will find it sometimes necessary 

 to anchor his boat on the windy outskirts of a village or town. 



With a fair wind, another day will bring the traveller to 

 Thebes. He will probably be disappointed with the aspect of 

 the world-renowned spot. The Libyan hills are grand features 

 on one side of the stream ; but a vast plain stretches towards 

 the Ked Sea on the other. The high mud banks on both sides, 

 and the low water in the river, prevents any extended view, 

 hence a sense of flatness or tameness pervades the scene. 

 Luxor, the general landing-place, where all boats anchor, 

 relieves the monotony ; it is on high ground, crowned by the 

 ruins of a fine temple. All here is bustle and activity. The 

 bank is lined with travellers' boats, acquaintanceships are 

 renewed, pleasant parties formed for visiting the objects of 

 interest that crowd upon attention here. The natives are busy 

 to obtain employment as guides or attendants, or as salesmen 

 for antiquities of all kinds. Time speeds rapidly away, and a 

 fortnight can never be passed more agreeably than here. The 

 temples of Luxor, Karnac, Gournou, and Medinet-abou j the 

 Colossi on the plains, the wild mountain passes leading to the 

 Tombs of the Kings, all combine to astound the visitor, and 

 give him pleasant memories to dream over in after life. No 

 descriptions and no pictures can convey a complete idea of the 

 wonders of the Theban plain; and when, after days of plea- 

 surable fatigue, the traveller welcomes the repose of evening, 

 it is ushered by sunsets of gorgeous magnificence, the golden 

 light of the sun gives a tinge of green and purple to the blue 

 sky near it, flaky clouds of fantastic* form gather around, 

 bearing tints of brightest rose-colour, those nearest the setting 

 sun luminous as himself, so that the eye can scarcely dwell 

 upon these flecks of burnished gold. When the sun has set, 

 an after-glow of rosy light gleams over the entire land for 

 some minutes, with enchanting effect ; and the stranger feels, 

 upon his last day on the Nile, that he may never chance to 

 see the sun set again in such supreme glory elsewhere. 



With the large majority of travellers the Nile journey ends 

 at Thebes ; it is 454 miles distant from Cairo, and the voyage 

 occupies from three weeks to a month, according to wind and 

 weather. Travellers should allow themselves two months and a 

 half for the whole journey and the unavoidable stoppages. It 

 is a slow business at the best of times, nor can Oriental 

 indolence be stimulated. 



Should the traveller persevere to the boundaries of Old 

 Egypt at the first cataract, he will be well rewarded by the 

 greater beauty of the river, the vast and wondrously-perfect 

 temple at Edfou, the rock temples and quarries at Silsilis, 

 from whence the ancient Egyptians obtained their building 



