14 Modern Jewellery and Art. 



who would build up a fairy fabric of graceful proportions 

 and magic colours, to embalm jewels which were more prized 

 for their names than for their beauty ; or a Holbein to trace 

 symmetrical outlines, and mingle brilliant colours in softening 

 harmony, for the jeweller's behoof. But now that gold 

 abounds, and gems were never so abundant or so beautiful, the 

 artistic element is neglected, or allowed to fall through alto- 

 gether; and the jeweller entrenches himself behind his dazzling 

 store, and flashes their unassisted rays in the eyes of his 

 customers. There is more skill, more talent, more appreciation 

 of the beautiful even, among workmen now than at any time 

 within the last century, if it were only turned to proper 

 account. A true piece of jewellery should be as much a work 

 of art as a picture, or a figure sculptured in marble ; and there 

 is no possible reason why it should not be so. There is no 

 want of lovers of ornament, or of wealth to devote to its 

 study ; it is only necessary to place the fact clearly before one, 

 viz., that the most beautiful materials for ornament in creation 

 are only half utilized for their best purpose, or are degraded 

 into meretricious imitations of commonplace objects. It is not 

 so with the silversmith. All that refined art and delicate 

 manipulative skill can perform is lavished upon our race-cups, 

 our epergnes, our centre-pieces, our candelabras, to the delight 

 of all beholders, and the permanent advancement of art itself. 

 The material is comparatively valueless ; it is the spirit breathed 

 into it, the wonderful skill of execution which gives the vase, 

 or the group of figures, its value. Whereas, in the case of a 

 piece of jewellery, it is usually the cost of the gems, not the 

 beauty of the design nor the delicacy of the workmanship, 

 which is the subject of admiration. 



The fault of this comparative lack of art conception in 

 jewellery rests greatly with the public. So long as the taste 

 of the public lies in horse- shoes, and straps and buckles, 

 the jeweller is not likely to strive to anything much 

 higher. The public should be the real teachers, not the 

 slavish pupils of the manufacturer ; and if gentlemen would 

 devote the same study, and the same natural taste, to their 

 family jewels — not necessarily in a spirit of costly outlay — as 

 they do to the building of their mansions, the furnishing of 

 their halls and studies, or the laying out of their grounds, the 

 jeweller would be found an apt and willing scholar. A piece 

 of jewellery would then become a real work of art, as it was 

 in days long gone by ; a series of models for cheaper orna- 

 ments being created, the general taste would be impi'oved ; 

 and eventually the abortions and apish vagaries of modern 

 jewellery would disappear, to the great comfort of all true 

 lovers of art. 



