DESIGN. 
drawing oftener refers to the imitative, or — part 
employed in reprefenting the appearances bea Se See 
Invention, Composition, PainTine, WING. 
Desicn, in the Weaviag ‘Manufatures, ‘Gpnifies the pat- 
tern of any ornamented piece of cloth, when the ornaments 
are woven in the loom along with the “fabric. A fpecies of 
paper is ufed to lay down thefe ornaments to a fcale, which 
is called defign paper, and which ferves to dire€&t the weaver 
mo ous threads . that part 
the y ee which is ftretch or m, w is 
arp. Thefe leaves are called heddles in ane 
land, healds in Lancahhire, and ma 1 
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paper upon which the defign is to be drawn, is ruled from 
top to bottom with a number of parallel lines, the intervals 
between which reprefent certain portions of warp. Thefe, 
being again croffcd by other parallel lines at right angles, the 
latter reprefent that part of the yarn which is inferted by the 
fhuttle, and which is called the woof or weft. The defign- 
paper, when ruled, has the appearanc number of {mall 
iquares, and in thefe the defign is ined ex a black lead 
pencil, or with any kind of water colour, very frequently 
with vermilion, or red la Every interval upon the paper 
may be fuppo . fois shane aus one or more threads. 
When it will n cupy too much {fpace, es when the 
defign requires F pateaa ie ae fhape, the moft accu- 
rate way Is e every ieee reprefent oily one thread. 
At other ioe it frequently reprefents two, and fometimes 
more. 
The five figures in Plate 1V., Mi/cellany, 
modes of drawing oS for the fpecies ‘of ornamented cloth 
moft commonly made in Great Britain. Different ways of 
effecting se Ra in ake loom are practifed, according to 
the fabric of the cloth, and the purpofe to which it is to be 
applied. In the lighter manufa@ures of the filk, lawn, and 
muflin trades, now chiefly ufed as ornamental parts of female 
drefs, the fabric is generally fo flimfy, thar, when ornamented 
in the loom, the figures, in order to have any fhow, muft be 
compofed of yarn, much coarfer than that which forms the 
ground or fabric of the cloth, and this yarn is fometimes 
dyed of different colours. Being moft convenient in gene- 
ral, and the patterns more eafily changed, the weft, or woof, 
is mot frequently ufed for this purpofe. Figures 1 and 2, 
are reprefentations of this 
reprefent two. For the gopliestion of thefe defigns to the 
purpofes of mounting looms, {ee the article Draucut and 
in, 
ie heavier branches of the manufa@ure of cloth, 
effeGted without ae alteration in the fine nefs col 
either warp or waof, an fre wit 
he figs. Sand 5, refer to thefe kinds 
and the {quares’t m ms of thefe may be fuppofed 
to reprefent any number of threads from three to eight, 
according to the finenefs of the cloth, and labour beftowed 
in ornamenting it. Fig. 4, is alfo a kind of ornamented 
cloth of the dimity kind of a ftout fabric. Each f{quare 
upon the defign reprefents one thread. For the application 
of thefe, fee the refpetive articles Diaper, Diet, Dor- 
nock, and Draw-Loom, efpecially the laft. 
When defigns are drawn upon paper, the diftance of the 
lines is generally fo much more than the diameters of the 
threads which they reprefent, that the figure upon the cloth 
‘the ground are vacant, every 
will often be very different both in fize and appearance froma: 
eferences to the ary will be 
found in the a eae articles to which they refer. 
Some pale remarks upon the principle oF defigning 
cloth, and upon the analogy which fubfifts- 
between the — of any flower or patterv, when drawn 
upon plain paper, when reduced to the defign-paper, and 
when woven into the cloth, may, however, be ufeful to thofe 
who poffefs an adequate knowledge of the art of manufac- 
turing plain cloth, but who are net equally converfant with 
the varrous branches of ornamental weaving. 
hen an oblique or curvilincal figure is drawn 
painted, either upon canvas, paper, or any other fubftance, 
no ag ian exits to prevent the arti 
ture. But, when an n 
to be transferred to defign-paper, and from thence to cloth, 
the we facilities do not exift, and the utmoft h the 
molt ul weaver can effe@ is only she neareft poffible 
coor cision to the original from which he copies. Every 
perfon at all acquainted with weaving knows, that the 
of warp are ftretched in the loom, formi aight 
€ w S. 
can, therefore, be formed in the loom, except ee va 
point in the warp, where the in 
appears, and ever 
equal to the diameter of one thre 
or left, every time that a thread of woof is paffed acrofs, 
the diagonal line produced will form invariably an angle of 
45° both with warp: and woof. The diagonal here, then, 
is produced by the refolution of two equal forces, ang at 
right angles to each other. But an obliquity, confined in- 
variably to an angle of 45°, would produce a very limited 
range of patterns indeed. 
fuch as may be eficéted by it. O 
neceflary, in more extenfive defigns, to vary the obliquity of 
the angles frequently, and this can only aah done in two ways. 
I itting the a of interfe over more pg 
one thread of w warp, which will render cis. angle formed by: 
the diagonal line and warp greater, and that by the Siegel 
a the ri lefs than 
erting m ethan one thread of woof without 
fhifting cn pete of nterfeton, ate effe& of which. will be 
exa@lly = converfe of the for 
It is to be obferved, that by the ee a line is only 
meant ie apparent line which i is. prefented to the eye; foras- 
the fhifts are at right angles, each will form ah a ‘{quare 
or parallelogram, the true diagonal of which is intended to- 
be reprefented, and the means ufed are therefore only ap 
proximations to this. 
When the defign (fg. 5.) is examined, as-all the fquares: 
forming the flower are black, whilft tho fe which reprefent 
fhift, when minutely infpeGed, . 
is evidently at right angles, although the general. effedt,. 
when viewed at fome diftance, has the appearance. of diago- 
nal or curved lines. 
lefs than the meafures of the {quares-which reprefent them> 
upon the paper, that the angular corners which give the- 
Bice: of the flower the appearance of being dented, would: 
totally: 
