Aspects of Nature in Southern Peru. 335 



but had not attributed them to an earthquake; however, in 

 time, I got as sensitive to such occurrences as the natives. 



One evening we had a beautiful tropical sunset; it was mag- 

 nificent, and the colours most brilliant. The day had been 

 cloudless and the sun shining brightly ; from gentle breezes it 

 became a dead calm, and it appeared as if we were floating on a 

 sea of glistening ultramarine; and as the sun was setting, 

 the western sky, as if on fire, caused the sea to glow with 

 its glorious reflections. The other portion of the heavens was 

 tinted with light rose and lavender colours, blending harmo- 

 niously into one another ; and then the changes were so rapid ! 

 We see all this wonderful beauty for an instant — in a moment it 

 is gone, and we have to call upon a traitorous recollection for a 

 faint description. 



The arrival of the " San Miguel " was an event in the bay of 

 Iquique. On one side was the rugged guano island, on the other 

 high and precipitous mountains, and before us a small collection 

 of the most miserable -looking habitations imaginable ; in the 

 rear huge sandhills, and beyond them mountains, mountains, 

 desert mountains ! 



I was landed by a swift sea-skimming seal-skin balsa ; the 

 whole population, consisting of some dozen families, were on the 

 beach to give me a welcome, and a thousand inquiries as to 

 when Don Jorge would return, and when we were to begin 

 working the mines of Huantajaya. 



The occupation of the inhabitants of this desolate spot con- 

 sisted in fishing and conveying imported provisions to the 

 mines. Their miserable-looking habitations were built of 

 rough porphyritic stone, cemented with mortar of burnt sar- 

 gasso, or gigantic sea-weed, and sea-shells, and covered with 

 mats brought from the north of Peru. The floors were of bare 

 earth, and at one end was a raised part, which was the sleeping 

 place; a small table and a stool was a luxury. The people 

 appeared very happy, and even very kindly disposed, and 

 seemed as if they were but of one family. 



After I had got somewhat accustomed to this strange scene 

 of the most absolute sterility imaginable, I used to wander in 

 the cool of the evening from one habitation to another — tertuli- 

 ando, gossiping and listening to their stories — they to mine. 

 Having a medicine chest, a lancet, and tooth drawer, I very 

 soon was called " El Senor Doctor ' ; ! and I think I may most 

 conscientiously state that I never did much harm during my 

 medical career, although I have had to attend to diseases I knew 

 nothing about, and perform operations with similar intelligence. 

 With comparatively harmless medicines I was not very particular 

 as to the dose, but when I had to deal with calomel or strong 

 chemicals like blue pill I was most careful. 



