1 72 The Rhinoceros in Bhotan. 



though in many places apparently shallow, the quicksands 

 which frequently occur rendered this preliminary operation 

 dangerous in the extreme for elephants. At last fairly across, 

 we enter a dry, grassy-looking country, with occasional patches 

 of cultivation, and here and there a few huts are clustered 

 together under the shadow of a clump of bamboos or plan- 

 tains. 



In the background, especially after rain, are seen the clear 

 outlines of the Himalaya Mountains : many of the peaks tipped 

 with snow contrast strongly against the dark masses of the 

 lower ranges, and produce a very fine effect. The lowest range 

 from Julpigorie is only forty or fifty miles distant. 



Moving onwards, we occasionally come across a high 

 bamboo fort belonging to the Bhotanese, who, by nature 

 mountaineers, are kept in small parties, scattered over this 

 plain portion of their country, to hold in check their Bengalee 

 slaves, who are inured to the heat, and till the land for their 

 masters. This flat portion of Bhotan grows nearly all the rice 

 and corn produce for the mountainous district, and is in fact 

 the richest part of the whole kingdom. Were the British to 

 occupy this, as they did in the case of its neighbour Sikkim, it 

 would inflict a heavy blow on this turbulent nation, who are 

 always quarrelling, either amongst themselves or with their 

 neighbours, and have on various occasions laid themselves open 

 by indiscriminate slave- stealing, to war with the British Govern- 

 ment. 



But " to return to our muttons." The belt of cultivation 

 near the river is soon passed, and we come to a stunted tree 

 jungle, chiefly salwood (Shorea robusta), the best timbers of 

 which have long been cut up, and floated down the river to 

 Calcutta for railway sleepers. This wood is considered the best 

 for that purpose, being so hard that it is the only one capable 

 of standing for any length of time the ravages of the white 

 ant ; and cutting it up forms the principal occupation of a tribe 

 of woodcutters, who eke out a miserable existence in this dis- 

 trict during the rainy season, which floods the river, floats 

 their timbers, and makes this tract of country the very hot-bed 

 of fever and malaria. 



After leaving the sal forests, we reach a vast plain, covered 

 with large patches of high reeds alternating with grass savan- 

 nahs. The tallest and greenest of the reeds indicate the exis- 

 tence of some half-dried-up pool of water, and in beating up 

 several of these patches, we put up plenty of, to us, small 

 game, which is allowed to pass unmolested, though to a " griff ^ 

 the temptation to fire into a sounder of hog, or at a perverse 

 hog deer (Hyelaphus porcirms), which gets up just in front of the 

 elephant, can scarcely be controlled. 



