LEAVE OF ABSENCE. 115 



of the great dome, with its splendid altar beneath it, the canopy 

 of which, though as high as Nelson's column, looks but small and 

 low in comparison. On the whole, one is really struck into 

 littleness, which I take to be the great use of building stately 

 churches ; and here the architect has completely succeeded. 

 Among the monuments is one which you would have looked on 

 with much interest — that of the last of the Stuarts. It records 

 the names of James the Third and of Charles Edward, and the late 

 Cardinal of York, the last of the ill-fated line. Opposite is the 

 tomb of the queen of James the Second. To-day we were eight 

 hours in and about St. Peter's, having gone early this morning 

 to hear mass in the Pope's chapel, see the procession of the host, 

 and afterwards see the Pope wash the feet of thirteen pilgrims, 

 and then wait on them at table. Of course there was a terrible 

 crush, but we contrived to live through it. The Pope (of whom 

 they give a very good report) is a pleasing-looking old gentle- 

 man, with a very big nose, takes snuff, and seems at least sixty- 

 eight or seventy. He got through very well. Washing the 

 pilgrims' feet was rather a queer sight, and quite a burlesque 

 of the example which it is intended to imitate. It took place 

 in one of the side aisles of St. Peter's. There was hung up a 

 tapestry copy of Leonardo da Vinci's Last Supper, surrounded 

 by a wide border of crimson velvet and gold lace. Under this, 

 on a high bench, sat the pilgrims, clad in white, with white 

 caps. We and a dense crowd were below, as in the pit, while 

 boxes were prepared for the ladies and a few privileged gentle- 

 men. After a while came in a troop of bishops and cardinals 

 in their robes, then the Pope and his attendants. He was clad 

 in a crimson silk dress and mitre, with a very broad and richly 

 ornamented border of gold lace, &c. His supporters led him 

 up to a high throne, under a canopy, whereon he sat while some 

 service was singing. Then came a priest, attended by two 

 others with large candles in glass candelabra, who knelt before 

 him, when the supporters (above mentioned) held open the 

 scarlet robe and showed us his nether garments, while the priest 

 in front shook a golden censer before his holiness, which sent 

 up a smoke, whereon the supporters shut up the papal legs 

 again cosy and snug, and the service went on. After a while 

 a prelate approached the Pope with a white apron, the scarlet 

 robe and mitre were laid aside, and three or four prelates helped 



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